Keikari.com

“[I’m] 48 years old – President at Isaia, I mostly manage Marketing & Sales. Degree in Economics at Universita’ Bocconi in Milan, have two children, one girl, Andrea Chiara, and one boy, Enrico. They are both very interested about fashion. My father ran the Company for many years after my grandfather retired in 1961. It’s a family business, so I started to breath it since I was a child. [I’ve learned with] experience, going around the world with our agents and distributors. Today I watch a lot the young generations and the way the interpret their style. The strategy has been to create our own identity and to have as a target the “Real Man”. That means a man that has no problem to show his feelings, that is not afraid to stand out, to express himself with a personal style…..”The New Gentleman”

[My style is ]Contemporary Tradition. [Isaia is difference because of] the ability to re-interpret the heritage and excellence of the Neapolitan Sartorial Tradition in a Contemporary way. My life did not really changed. I am just very proud that Isaia embraces the new needs of the New Gentleman, the constant pursuit of new materials, the infinite attention to comfort and wearability of each garment, the obsession for details. [My hobbies are] playing tennis and spending any free time in the most special place for me…..Capri! I think the biggest fashion mistake men make is to follow the rules of other men. My tip can be: Make your own rules – do not follow mine!!!”

http://www.isaia.it/

Picture: © Isaia

~ Originally published in Finnish on the 21st of October 2011

Simonnot-Godard has an enviable heritage. The firm was founded in 1787 by Jacques Beaurain, who offered handkerchiefs, shirtings and linen for the aristocracy and bourgeois. In 1830 one Auguste Godard bought the firm, still making the very same goods. His daughter married a wealthy client, Victor Simmonot, who became a partner is the family business. Today, the business is still family-owned and operated in Caullery, specializing in French handkerchiefs of the highest quality. Materials range from cotton and silk to linen, with hand-rolled and sewn edges. The factory also produces private label accessories, belts and hand-embroidered pieces along with shirtings. S-G’s fabrics are made with artisanal looms, leading to unique products. With all this in mind, I was eager to see the end results.

As examples are two ‘kerchiefs from S-G’s workshop, one in cotton-linen mix and one in linen. Both have a smooth, uniform surface with a soft feel. They measure 32×31 cm, making them rather small. When folded and released, the cloths spring back to their original shape in an instant. The weave is strong and simply does not strecth, yet loose enough to leave plenty of room between threads. The same material would make for a beatiful shirt. Edges are rolled with exact precision and sown carefully and evenly. The handkerchiefs are wonderful. The maker does not have competitors, as no other maker can come up with similar products. Expensive and well-made breast pocket decorations are offered in every store, but none are woven and made like S-G’s.

Simonnot-Godard’s retailers sell the handkerchiefs for around 40 euros in Europe. When ordered from American webstores, the total will set at around 30 euros, which is still a lot for a piece of cloth. A wonderful piece of cloth, but still. The question remains whether men find the end result satisfying. As the maker has been around for 226 years now, I can safely vouch that many do. If the reader is only allowing himself one white ‘kerchief, let it be pure linen — and made by Simonnot-Godard.

http://www.simonnot-godard.com/

Loom picture: © Simonnot-Godard

Back in October I set upon a voyage. Frustrated and bored with readymade shirts cut like sails crafted from gossamer, topped with saddening collars, I turned to online shirtmakers. After having mastered eBay and forum sales, this felt like a natural step. The consept is clear: the customer selects his cloth and details, measures his best-fitting shirt and places an order. After a bit of searching I found around four dozen online shirtmakers. I wasn’t too keen on having a go at all, so limits had to be set. I only chose makers with fabrics from reputable mills, clear webstores, several collar options and ones who offered – or could make by request – unfused collars and cuffs. This narrowed the list down to about a dozen.

The odyssey’s goal is to present and review online shirtmakers. Accuracy of measurements, quality of make, selection, ease of use, customer service, customization and price-quality ratio are the variables I’m looking at. After having placed my order, I waited for a day or two before contacting the shirtmaker and requesting changes. This helped me assess customer service. Most of my orders were similar: a 5 cm high collar with a point length of 9 cm, unfused or soft collar and cuffs, slim fit, back darts, mother of pearl buttons, split yoke, white or blue in colour. I sent the same exact measurements to each maker, offering as additional information my height, weight and slim figure along with slouching shoulders. Most of the orders have been placed and received, reviews are due any day now. The winning maker gains my support and future orders.

” [I’m] 30 yrs old, Trouser Sarto. I begin to work as Sarto in my age 12. I had no choice. I was born with it. I did not have time to go to school, after I begin to work. I decide my career faster than other people. I have 2 daughters and a wife who give me a lot of inspiration. They taught me how to live with elegance.

Ambrosi is 4th generation trouser maker. I learned how to make trouser from my father and he learned it from my grand father. I was born with men’s classic wear. When I was a kid, I liked to wear as normal kids. But my father made me a lot of classic trouser, thus I simply turn in to the classic world. I gathered all the ispiration from people. I travel a lot. I stay in Napoli only 3 weeks in a month and rest of days I stay in other cities of Europe, Asia, and U.S. That means I meet many people who are great. The cloth doesn’t make people to be elegance, it only express who they are. Elegance is inside of person.

[My style is] Modern Classic. Ambrosi pants goes on. We learned the special skills from generation to generation. And my mission is handed out to next generation. Our pants is the most comfortable pants with great style and fit. We have the specialty of trouser over the generations. Many tailors make jacket and trouser, that’s why they do not think much times on trouser, but we do. And my father is still working, so he has that tradition and I try to catch what today’s world wants.

[My design philosophy is] nature. After the media coverage, many great men’s store propose me to do su misura event at their store. Now I work with Villa del Corea which is in Seoul Korea and Tie Your Tie which is in Japan. I am still on the fence to choose couple of others, but the most important fact is the philosophy of the owner. They must appreciate sartorial. That all I want. [My hobbies are] sailing, travel and play with my girls. [My tips]: read a lot of books. The photo doesn’t tell you much.”

http://www.ambrosi-napoli.com/indexeng.html

Pictures: © Ambrosi

~ Originally published in Finnish on the 23rd of February 2012