Keikari.com

“I am 41, I am a bespoke shoemaker also a College Professor teaching accessory design. I guess it is in my genes. There were many generation in the family work with leather, shoes, boots – I born into a family, where tools were part of the heritage from my grandfather. Before I went to shoemaking school I did not have that much idea, my Mom did not force me or something, just mentioned it as a good idea. I liked the idea, so I did it. I did not regret my choice. I have very mixed education, but shoemaking is my first career. I started my shoemaking education in 1986 and finished 1989. I also have college degree in economics and as a karate trainer.  I was very active in Karate for several years, competing, teaching. When I have a little time I just work on my book. I guess I am just lucky, that my work is my passion.

I don’t have kids yet. If I will have, I hope they will share my passion to shoemaking. I am sure [my folks] are proud that they have a shoemakers in the family. I re-started Koronya, when shoe business was really much down, all production practically went to Far-East, so even my grandma was concern about my future. In a year or so, everybody was convinced. Not just good feedbacks, but good PR, a lot of orders and invitations.

Schools and good masters should come first. I had and still have a lot of friends in this craft and I can proudly say, I can learn from students – I mean they don’t teach me, but sometimes, when I stocked with something, their fresh ideas, tries, approaches can help. Obviously it needs a strong professional background, what I was luck to have from a pure source.  I like simplicity. Because of my work I prefer not to have really expensive suits (the workshop is not a delicate place for expensive clothes), but I love good quality shirts – I have a lot of those. Luckily my size is very regular, so I have a wide range to choose from. I would say I wear casual elegant style. In terms of colors, I insist of masculine ones: blue, khaki, brown and black for sure. For accessories – for obvious reasons: coming from a leather-crafter family – I am spoiled. I make the shoes for myself, I have custom made bridle leather briefcases, belts etc. I can easily match them if this is what I want. I prefer to wear my own shoes –  not just for comfort, but some stuff you just can’t purchase. I wish to have more time to make shoes for myself.

I have a special one, the K model. I design, re-design that last model for several years, always finding something to improve, change. The shoe style is the same. It just look like a regular oxford – and that is correct – but with very meticulous details. I also love wholecuts and any shoes with fancy details in the construction. Why should someone choose me? Well, let me answer with a question: what is the difference between rap music and Bach? Same for shoes. It is easier to spot the similarities, than differences. They both look like shoes, you see a lot of leather on the visible spots, but that is it.  They can choose any of those. This is the beauty – just like restaurants. You might like a particular one, but you try many. There are huge differences for sure, in terms of quality, design, craftsmanship and prices for sure. I think the main argument for choosing a Koronya shoe is quality. service and comfort.

The fact that they are part of the process is just a plus. They not just placing an order at a store, but a leather scented workshop, full with old tools and authentic interior. They receive fittings, not just the ready made shoe immediately and I make sure they receive what is good for their feet. Many people walk away from shoe store with footwear which might cause damage. It shouldn’t happen with mine shoes. I believe bespoke shoemaking should remain a personal business, when a human measure your foot (not just nostalgic reasons, but this is more accurate – a machine will never check if your feet is just squeezed because of the shoe you just stepped out, just scan), you should spend time in the workshop, making your choice, and get your shoes there. If you can’t walk into the workshop – you lose half of the experience.

The effects of media coverage? Surprisingly none. I mean it put my name out there, so many people will know who I am in the shoe world, but on the other hand I never had a single customer coming because he saw me in Men’s Journal, The Rake or Town and Country. it is more fun I guess for me, friends and family, but there are so many magazines, TV and radio – come and go. Recently I was just avoiding giving interviews because of wasting time. My waiting list is pretty long – why would I want to generate more interest?

Try! If someone take the first good handmade shoes on his foot, that will change him. Not just stands and walks a different way, but it gives a comfort what you never dreamed of. People tend to think that athletic shoes are comfortable – they are good for sports, running tennis, etc. After the first experience with a good, made to measure, handmade shoes they don’t want to wear anything else. Let me share this. If I have a customer, who orders his first pair, I warn him: do not wear them twice in a row. For sure they will, even if this doesn’t let the shoe dry properly, so they risk that it loses its shape and wears off before time. You just can’t resist. Cheap materials, foams, paper insoles, synthetic stuff doesn’t give the same feeling than leather. If you compare fast food with fine dining – you understand what I mean.”

http://www.koronya.com/

Most  woollen knits have plenty of stretch in the ribbing, but ecxeptions abound. When the  piece fits well, but its sleeve ribbing squeezes, it’s time for a little trick. The ribbing should be doused and the sleeve filled with a cylindrical item. Anything with a round shape will do, just as long as it’s large enough to stretch the sleeve. I favour glasses. Wet wool will change permanently with the help on consistant stretching, ribbings included. After the moisture has dissipated, the filling is removed and the sleeve should now fit. The only caveat for such operations is the filling size: too large ones will stretch the sleeve excessively, too small ones have no effect.

“I’ll be 48 this year and am married to Claire and have two young sons. My children are of course more interested in Disney’s “Cars” than anything Dad’s doing. I was educated in my home rural environment and then our local Grammar school. Before attending collage on a course which I had no interest in but seemed useful at the time I took a summer job with local tailors S.Redmayne Ltd.  I was eighteen years old and my interests were, as you’d expect girls and alcohol (well I though this was normal). This work allowed me access to one, the money then ultimately two, the girls. That’s about how interested I was in fashion and style. By sheer coincidence and good fortune I found this work thoroughly enjoyable and challenging and with the help of the owner and long time friend Michael Wigglesworth who inspired me to stay for an apprenticeship and then to go to college to study pattern cutting.

Basically, without trying I inadvertently found my career. This I never expected but I knew I was home. My friends and family were basically shocked and couldn’t believe what I was doing as this was a total departure from the careers of my siblings. Never the less they were please for me as they could clearly see that although young I was very happy and exited for the future. I worked for this company for just over 6 years then I moved to Anderson & Sheppard were I stayed until I left and started my own business. In that time you never stop learning and I’m always open to every piece of new skill that may help with our challenge of making cloth do our will.

We started [English Cut] in January 2005 ! It was simply an idea of a friend of mine called Hugh Macleod who said what I did was far too interesting to just have an ordinary website. So, I started to write and thought no one would pay attention but it ended up in the London Times top 100 blogs. It was the original, first, tailoring craft blog. Everyone who said they didn’t like it at the time all now have bogs. Funny that;) My style and our house style is of course most clearly influenced by Anderson’s. My training before them gave me the technical ability but they were the icing on the style cake. Our clothes I hope reflect our company. Relaxed, honest and and more interested in the individual wearer’s comfort and confidence than our branding.

As you’ve pointed out there are hundreds of tailors in the world and why choose English Cut? Well, put simply I’ve nothing to say apart from the fact we want people to know us, to talk to us and see if we like each other. We’re not for everyone so we don’t have our arms outstretched wide for business. Don’t choose us on here say or a name to impress your friends. Research us and look at what we do. If you like what you see then let’s talk. Oh, and bear in mind we’re not quick..

With family life I don’t have a lot of time for myself outside of the business. However, when I’m home I teach navigation and sailing at a local Sea Cadet Unit. Also, we often hold teaching workshops at our office and when time allows I try to inspire in my own way the next generation of cutters. This will be my next event at the British Fashion Council in early April. Where I’ll be demonstrating cutting using our freehand method.”

http://www.englishcut.com/

Pictures: © English Cut

After having ordered, received and reviewed made to measure shirts from around a dozen online makers, I feel a small summary of my experiences is in order. As fabric selections, my listed measurements, used machines and manufacturing methods are fairly alike, the comparisons must be drawn from other variables. Of these by far the most important is the end result. Fit is key, finishing is essential. What I’ve learned: all shirtmakers muck up. Measurements are off, collars are of wrong type, delivery times lengthen, patterns are not matched, so on. The first shirt is always a prototype. Even the odyssey’s winning and second-best maker got my subsequent orders wrong. Thus, online shirtmakers will not please the restless customer. Some orders must be returned for alterations, others won’t be quite right in the long run, and end up on eBay or such. At their best, however, online shirtmakers offer similar end results and fit as established houses. The process is just impersonal.

Most online shirtmakers have two substantial advantages: prices and ease of use. Based in India, Hong Kong, China and the like, the makers can offer bespoke-made shirts with pleasing prices. They have no stores with high rents, middlemen nor typical sales clerks with accustomed wages. Their webstores offer clear instructions and interfaces. The customer has no need to make an appointment, clear his schedule, go through endless fabric books and discuss details. Once his fit has been solved, a great shirt can be ordered with a few clicks, delivered to his office or front door. Easy, affordable, enjoyable. Online shirtmakers will not please the man craving attention and service or fast results. Others will find excellent results and never look back on readymade shirts. After my experiences, I can recommend online shirtmakers with the caveats listed.