Keikari.com

Today’s link leads to a silly little Tumblr devoted to menswear figures and topics as well as online acronyms. The end result is an eclectic cacophony of style nerds with too much spare time and forum snark in their noggins. In short, fun against the office boredom.

Picture: © original uploader

http://memeswear.com/

http://www.handembroidery.com/

‘My name is Cole rogers, I am 40-years-old and have owned a marketing company for the last 14 years. I am educated as an attorney, but found the hours to be too restrictive. I still work many 60-hour workweeks, but I get to choose which hours (which are NOT the regular 9-5). I chose this business because it allows me to spend time with my 3 young kids. I typically wake them up in the morning, make breakfast, then drive them to school and talk with them. I often get home from work at 8-9 pm and have time to see them to bed, complete with kisses and hugs. I then usually work several more hours at the home computer.

Not much excitement to discuss my education and vocation, I think. Your other interviews are generally of people in the fashion industy, whose businesses and training are directly related to their passions for style. I am more like most of your readers, “regular guys” who work regular jobs, but LOVE some aspect of clothing or mens’ style. I think what’s most important is that I chose a passion (vintage shoes) expressly because it is a “hobby” that I can share and involve my family with.  Like everything else I do in my life, I do dedicate considerable time and effort to it, though.

About shoes (the important stuff), I really got into them specifically around 4 years ago. Up until that, I had always enjoyed fine men’s clothing. Probably because my Father loves it as well, and he would take me with him to buy clothes. In the late 1970’s to early 1980’s, we used to shop at a store called “Dimensions” in Philadelphia. What fond memories! In fact, I STILL have a few items my Father bought from there. A 10-pound shearling Bally coat and a custom made Zegna fabric suit. Quality lasts. If you take care of it, it will last a lifetime (or more!).

Now, I have a lot of responsibilities and a LOT of bills! In addition, I tend to be a bit obsessive compulsive when it comes to the things I enjoy. I love to collect. The research and learning process along with the amassing of a collection gets my blood flowing for sure. This is where the Vintage Shoes come in. I LOVE quality and unique styling in all things related to mens fashion/style. If I allowed myself to indulge in all things under this umbrella, I would surely end up divorced! Top modern items are so expensive, and my money is more focused on kids, house, family vacations and the like…as it should be.

THIS is why I love fantastic Vintage Shoes. Since my first pair of REAL vintage shoes (not some Florsheim gunboats, but a REAL pair of 1920’s captoe oxford spade sole ankle boots), I saw that the materials and construction of the top vintage models actually EXCEED almost all RTW modern shoes. Hand-Welting! So rare today, JL London & EG RTW are prime examples of great modern shoemakers who have embraced the Goodyear! I actually have no objections to goodyear-welted shoes, and own quite a few pairs. However, NOTHING compares with a 100% genuinely hand-made shoe. The leather quality and construction is so evident when we see that many of these shoes are STILL wearable today! I have numerous 70+ year-old shoes that look just the same as they did after the shoemaker boxed them. They don’t get “old”, but “marinate” with time and improve with each year. I question whether the top modern shoes will do the same thing. I see so many pairs of J.M. Westons (who I really like, actually…own 2 pairs of 3x sole models), EG, Lobb and the like that are cracking and falling apart after only 20 years. The Classics just keep on ticking like a Vintage Rolex.

Pictured: vintage summer footwear from the 1930’s to 1960’s

Since my first pair of true Vintage Shoes, I have been an addict.  I started out buying shoes just to get the chance to examine them. Even if they didn’t fit, even if they were some crazy AAA width that NO ONE could fit. I wanted to learn, so I figured the best way was to handle them, and dissect them. I love to de-construct a pair of shoes and see what makes them tick. The best vintage pairs reveal the love and passion of the maker just like a fine timepiece’s movement reveals the same thing. So, today I personally own maybe 80 pairs of shoes. I have a strict rule that if I go an entire year without wearing a pair, I have to sell them so they will get worn. I HATE it when great shoes are closeted or boxed. They need to be WORN! I test my passion for a particular pair each time I wear them. If I don’t look down at my feet and say to myself, “those are freaking nice” at least 3x in a day, I sell them. In my office, I have maybe 250 pairs that I am refurbishing. My cobbler is 93-years-old and has been in the business for 77 years. He has been so great about sharing with me all kinds of great stories and tidbits of info. It is best when I bring in a pair for him to see and he almost comes to tears as he says, “MY Dad had a pair of those!”

Styling is the other part of it. There is no such thing as “a NEW style” or something truly “original”. Every style I see today is just a recycled one from 50 or more years ago. There is nothing wrong with this, though. I just prefer the “originals”. I can really appreciate the times when a shoemaker would come up with a design that NO ONE had ever thought of before. Pushing the envelope with innovation, but clearly devoid of fear. Real artists that let the art go in its own direction…KNOWING that there will be a market that will love and wear them.

So, I’m basically just a guy who needs a hobby and found the perfect one for his personality and lifestyle. My kids all have 1940’s NOS shoes and my 9-year-old daughter can identify just about any exotic leather. It’s very cool when my son gets psyched to wear his 1940’s wingtips! Can you imagine a 5-year-old wearing some 1940’s hand-welted, closed-channel-soled spade captoes…and appreciating what he’s got (and lovin’ the fact that he matches Daddy’s!).  Just so much fun for me. I am a Vintage Shoes Addict…and proud of it.

My own dress is “eclectic”. I USED to love suits and ties. I still have over 200 ties, but have found myself no longer wearing them except on rare occasions. I’m a Dad, and I own my company, so I am much more casual now (I can be). In winter, I love wool and tweed pants and heavy sweaters. In summer, I like slacks of light cotton and linen. Right now I’m on a “polo style shirt” kick, but I am sure I’ll change again soon. I always like to make my shoes the focal point of any outfit, so I may well wear some super dressy shoes with an otherwise pretty casual outfit.

I never tell anyone that they should buy all vintage shoes. They should find their own style and embrace it. HOWEVER, I also believe that any man who really enjoys top quality shoes MUST take the time to try out top quality TRUE Vintage (1920’s thru 1940’s ideally). There is a whole world of incredible styles and QUALITY that a shoe lover should experience at some time or another. Try them and you too may well become addicted.’

http://vintageshoesaddict.com/

http://stores.ebay.com/Vintage-Shoes-Addict

http://www.styleforum.net/u/76506/isshinryu101

Pictures: © Vintageshoesaddict.com

England is home to many shoemakers in general and the shire of Northampton to several factories in particular. Crockett&Jones, founded in 1879, offers a large collection of shoes and boots for men and women in sizes 5 to 13 and 45 to 105, respectively. The company’s lasts are sleek and contoured, more akin to Italian designs than the plump and robust forms of Blighty, with chiseled and petite toes to boot. The men’s collection offers three lines: Main Collection, Hand Grade and Shell Cordovan, the last forming an exception to English devotedness to bovine leathers. C&J has eleven company stores in the UK, USA, Belgium and France, with specific models catering to well-shod sensibilities in each country. The British models amount to over two hundred in more than a dozen materials and colours, lasts to thirty, and a MTO program is offered for those with particular tastes. Accessories, shoe care products and belts guarantee a longer, more stylish lifespan for the footwear.

As an example of C&J’s make is the plaintoe derby model Ashdown in shell cordovan leather, made on last 341, with double leather soles. The cordovan uppers, often titled crup in England, are lasted carefully with no creases or bubbling in sight. Stitching is straight and tight in a suitably matching shade of thread. The derby edges are piped with black leather, which offers a welcome contrast to the otherwise eggplant-like pair.The heels are rigid and rounded, the toe chiseled and slightly pointed, all with proper stiffeners to maintain shape and guarantee support.

The last 341 fits true to size with contoured lines on the ankle and instep, though the toe is somewhat elongated. The 360-degree welt is trimmed and, when worn, remains hidden below the heel and waist’s contours for a sleek profile. The Goodyear-welt stitch is dense and tight, the storm welt more for looks than function. The sole, though double in height, is also on the sleeker side when compared to the likes on Tricker’s pairs and also has a wonderful vegetable smell. The leather lining is very soft, but not the stuff of legends.

On paper, a plaintoe derby with shell cordovan uppers, double sole, storm welt and 360-degree welt add up to a clunky casual workhorse. Yet C&J manages to trim these variables down and, paired with a contoured last, the end result is a beefed up smart shoe, more inclined to favour a bit heavier suitings than corduroy or moleskin. I feel this shows the skill of the maker. Crockett&Jones is well-known among the cognoscenti for its excellent price-quality value, sleek lasts, clean finishing and details. One point I don’t see mentioned often is their leather insole. It’s tanned both rougher and thicker, which combine into an insole that won’t be pressed down with wear as much as most. This means that the fit will not change much as the years go past — a feature I find welcome.

I’ve owned and do own several pairs from C&J, each one of them reminds me just how much shoe they’re able to offer with the price. In its price range, I feel the factory has no competitors inside the UK. Carmina from Spain springs to mind, similar in lasts and make, also a master of shell cordovan, yet not British by heart and spirit. When footwear is in question, one can’t go wrong with Crockett&Jones. As long as the reader avoids their cavalry calf, a corrected grain material, everything is just dandy.

http://www.crockettandjones.com