Interview with José Albaladejo Pujadas
0March 29, 2013 by Ville Raivio
‘José Albaladejo, 74 years old [this text was first published two years ago] and I have been working with shoes for 57 years as designer, pattern maker and businessman since the 60’s, when I began a small family business and which soon was a big shoe company, Yanko. It was a very known company in Spain and abroad. The company was sold and there is nothing left of the ancient company nowadays. My wife and I began a new small company with the aim of making the best Goodyear-welted shoes for men and women, I think we are near that.
I have 6 children, 3 men and three women, all of them are involved in shoes. Two of them have their own businesses and the other four are involved in Carmina Shoemaker. Antonio is the manager and the follower of the family name, which began with my great-grandfather, Marlen is responsible for the store design and also designs women’s shoes, Betty is in charge of all customers abroad as well as shows, and Carmina the youngest is preparing to be shop manager and buyer, this job is ran by my wife at the moment.
At the age of 10, I began my interest in shoes because of my grandmother, she wanted me to follow my grandfather’s business. My grand father was the first to set up a Goodyear-welted factory in Inca, Mallorca, the kind of construction of which the city was famous for (only in men’s shoes). The family never abandoned this method in shoes, and also introduced it for women, which nowadays are almost the like in make. This kind of construction only had been used in the early 20th century in very craftsmen-kind shoes and then disappeared. At 19, I went to Italy and stepping into factories I took my first knowledge which was very useful, but above all was the passion I have always had, and never has it abandoned me, the spark to make me do better shoes every day and looking to improve every day. Our shoes are different in many ways from the British, we have our own style.
I can say my style began with Yanko, when we began making our own lasts, we very carefully studied and applied to them personal styles specially designed for these lasts, which were very singular to our brand. For me, the oxford is The shoe. Throughout my life I have had many icons, above all the British, who have been, during the last 150 years, the Mozart in men’s shoes, however, the Italians have always followed fashion and for this reason theirs has been an ephemeral shoe. [My hobbies are] classical music, but during listening I continue drawing and designing. I also walk a lot. Be passionate in what you do, don’t do it only to earn a living.’
Picture: © Carmina
~ originally published in Finnish on the 28th of March 2011
Category Cordwainers, Interviews, Tradesmen
Wildean Spirit
0March 28, 2013 by Ville Raivio
“The paradoxes of the Preppy Look – it is simultaneously bold & conservative, modern & traditional, relaxed & contrived, safe & sensuous – would seem to make it the Everyman clothing choice, particularly for socially turbulent times.”
~ Benjamin Wild
Category Quotations
Interview with James Sleater
0March 28, 2013 by Ville Raivio
“Age 32, Owner and Director at Cad & The Dandy. I was fortunate to have gotten my elementary education at Stowe School, in a setting that epitomises beauty. Further education was at Leeds University, where I studied History of Art and Classics. I live with my wife, who thinks my style is impeccable (of course) and a dog with a penchant for bedding down in my new clothes as soon as I bring them home. Coming from a family whose business has witnessed the decline of British manufacturing, they had a bitter sweet reaction: it’s fantastic that you are trying to bring back the art of tailoring and UK manufacturing but perhaps you should work in an industry that is more secure than high end clothing, given that there is a recession “on”.
My school had no uniform but it did have a dress code, which was basically suited office attire. This allowed individuality – everyone trying to be the peacock – and taught us to consider how we dressed and how our clothes were perceived by others. It was never about fashion, it was always about style. Many of my friends are still in the manufacturing industry, making cloth, clothing and the like, which was where my interest started and knowledge grew. Having personal style icons, combined with a great thirst for autobiographies, also helped me to learn about how smart people dress and gave me valuable insights into their thoughts on the subject.
There are simple rules that everyone should know – which buttons to do up on a jacket, which buttons to leave undone on a waistcoat and what length trousers and sleeves should be. But, fundamentally, it’s the skill, craft and time that goes into making a handmade suit that should be universally appreciated. I like to wear traditional with an edge, mixing old styles with new: fishtail trousers and a modern cut jacket. I also like to play around with colour combinations. At Cad &The Dandy, we pride ourselves on offering clients a modern accessible approach, combining classic British fabrics and tailoring with their individual requirements – giving them the ultimate experience in service and style.
Ian and I were both bankers in the City of London. After being made redundant in 2008, we got together and decided to start the company. We’ve had to prove ourselves among some of the finest and most established Savile Row tailors, revered the world over for outstanding service, quality and style. It was never going to be easy but I think we’ve been accepted as genuine purveyors of everything that traditional and contemporary British tailoring has to offer (and a little bit more!). Ready to wear is a tough one. Since starting the business I can’t remember the last off the peg item I bought. It’s hard to go back to off the peg once you’ve experienced the benefits of hand tailored garments. And, with so many fantastic tailors to choose from, it’s hard to single out individuals, but if it’s a military cut you’re after, Welsh and Jefferies are hard to beat.
[My hobbies include] riding – polo, hunting, shooting – ideally, any pursuit that allows me to leave London at the weekends. Experiment with clothing, colours and combinations but remember to keep it simple, no need to over dress or over style. Classic will always be classic. If you happen to notice a look put together in a magazine, or on a chap walking down the street, make a note of it. A lot of people use things like Pinterest to build up ideas, references and reminders. Don’t merely ape others but always bring elements of individuality to the clothes you wear -that’s when true style is born.”
http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/
Pictures: © James Sleater
Category Interviews
John Lobb’s Museum Calf
0March 27, 2013 by Ville Raivio
Those in the know have seen and often fallen in love with John Lobb’s (Paris) museum calf. This supple leather, offered in several colours, is treated with a strong antique finish, featuring darker brushed patches on a lighter backdrop. If the reader is pondering on a pair of museum Lobbs, but cannot justify their price-range or gemmed construction, I’ve a simple solution to share. The leather comes from the Italian tannery of ILCEA S.p.A., who offers the material as a glazed leather type, titled Radica. Judging by the shoe pictured on ILCEA’s website, the tannery also supplies Edward Green’s factory. The maker shares this description of Radica: ‘Pure aniline glazed full grain antiqued calf, made in accordance with typical production systems of bespoke workmanship. Glazing gives the antiqued skin a wide range of aniline shades and effects. Padding is executed manually.’ If not directly, I’m sure this beautiful museum calf can be purchased from a leather merchant for use in special orders.
Category Footwear, Materials, Tanneries
Scott-Nichol
0March 27, 2013 by Ville Raivio
Scott-Nichol has made British leisure socks for over 70 years in Leicestershire. On 2007, the maker was purchased by Pantherella. Both factories, in turn, are owned by HJ Hall. The current grade is upheld with rare Bentley Komet knitting machines, all pairs come with hand-linked toes. S-N is well-known for its large range colourful, thick, warm, durable and patterned socks. Houndstooths, snowflakes, birdseyes and argyles are usually large-scale. Materials range from cotton, Shetland wool, alpaca and merino to mixes. Synthetics are used in small quantities to guarantee durability. Scott-Nichol’s alpaca socks are so far the warmest pairs I’ve tried. Highly recommended.
Category Quality makers, Socks
Copyright © 2013 Ville Raivio
