Keikari.com

Olden golden inspiration: heavy shoulders, low gorges, short peak lapels, closed quarters, full legs, cuffs without breaks, jetted pockets, canes, hats and — yes, some nice drape on blades and chest. I’ll give high praise for the reader who can help me identify the illustrator. I like his style.

‘I am a 35-year-old tailor. I got my Tailor qualification at the Tailoring School in Madrid. My wife works with me. I also have a daughter, Naia, who is 3, and playing with fabrics and patterns is her favourite game. My parents’ occupations have nothing related to fashion. In my free time I like cycling with my friends at weekends. I also like playing football. When I was a child, I worked in tailoring and since then classic clothing has appealed to me very much. As I see it, classic style is something related to our daily lifestyle, so it should not have to be changed each season. I learned about clothing in different ways: reading fashions books, training at home.I consider that Classic Renovated could be the style that describes me the best. I consider myself an Ozwald Boateng, Savile Row, fan.

Our company is the result of my attempt to communicate a concept that did not exist in the market yet: a special and different mix of the classic model with a renovated style. Our aim is daily self-improvement, based on getting better products and experimenting with different finishing touchs and combinations for our clients. Their personal satisfaction is my personal goal. In terms of quality, we have a sincere and superior product. Its aesthetic is sometimes fresh and daring and at others, regal. Clients identify with the product in different ways, its value is different too, depending on their personality. We have a fresh and exclusive product as our collections do not change every season. Each year, we have to adapt our fabrics, colours and collections to new tendencies, but always having in mind our Classic Renovated concept.

Apart from natural elegance, I wish more men would express it without artificial aspects. I love to listen to our customers’ concerns about fashion in order to show them how our trade works. This is something which, I truly believe, makes our client-tailor relationship bigger. Everyone should have their own personality and deliver it according to their identity. It is important to observe, learn and respect the elderly generation because they were brought up with the spirit of sacrifice and constancy as the main important values for succeeding in life. Believing in ourselves and doing our best in looking for excellence are the best ways to grow up and reach our objectives.’

http://landerurquijo.com/

Pictures: © Lander Urquijo

Daily reading: Cigar Aficionado visited the store of Oliver Moore back in 2008 and wrote about the (almost) lost art of custom-made shoes. If store prices have remained at the old level, OM is definitely cheaper than the English cordwainers of repute, with no corners cut.

http://www.cigaraficionado.com/webfeatures/show/id/9080

‘During the early and middle twenties a sharp, strictly non-college group (called “Cake Eaters”) evolved a style peculiar unto themselves. It was a narrow slope-shouldered coat, closely shaped at the sides and back and trimmed with slim peaked or notched lapels. The pants were narrow to the calf where they spread out into bell-bottoms. “Cake Eaters” wore high soft collars secured either by pins or by buttons on the neckband. Their ties were dark and rarely more than an inch wide. They often topped these outfits with pancake-like eight-quarter caps and wore pointed shoes. “Cake Eaters” went big for hard-finished worsteds, especially in pin stripes, but avoided tweeds and the “ice cream” shades–the mark of “Joe College.”‘

~ Mens Wear magazine’s 75 Years of Fashion edition, 1965