November 11, 2013 by Ville Raivio
The reader must have seen quite a few presentations of Passaggio Cravatte’s made to order service by now. Mine is nothing novel or miraculous, but may have some interest for those looking to jot down a meta-analysis. I was given a tie in exchange for a presentation.
Gianni Cerutti is a passionate man. With his partner in PC, Martha Passaggio, he has been on a mission since 2010 to create the finest neckwear available. Based in Robbio, a few clicks from Milan, and using Neapolitan old-world handcraft and vintage fabrics no longer in production, PC targets those in the know. Many of Passaggio Cravatte’s fabrics are several decades old, mostly hand block printed in Italy, and offered for as long as bolts last. The rest are commissioned reproductions of these patterns of the olden days.
PC’s ties are individually made to order, and the maker also offers ascots, handkerchiefs, bowties, scarfs and such. What’s different, though, is that PC has no store or showroom and the owners will rather visit their customers in situ. Those not able to visit the sunny Italy will be helped with fabric samples and photos. Although Mr Cerutti seems to convey his messages through Google’s fine translation service, we understood each other well. I was had at ‘hello, dear!’
I chose a mid-grey 1970s wool cloth from Biella with medium-size polka dots, self-tipped, with initials, a slightly longer 150 cm length, 4-fold construction and a thin wool backing. My requests were met and the tie is what I expected. The stitches are on the loose side but adjustable thanks to the slip stitch. All edges are hand-rolled by slim Neapolitan hands in Neapolitan workrooms in Naples.
The self-fabric tip and thin body will need a bit of time to get used to, but the wool drapes well and holds a knot as is good and proper. Passaggio Cravatte charges between 130 and 200 euros for one tie, depending on the choice of fabric and construction. This is more than the likes of, say, Drake’s, but the end result is customised. If a suitable fabric is found, the value and quality is there.