Keikari.com

Today’s interesting piece leads to TIME magazine’s archives where Tom Wolfe still roams free and holds sway in his own words. For the very busy, very short of concentration, here is the quotation which says it all:

“Q. Does it bother you to be called a ‘dandy’?

A. Not at all. Writers, whether they want to admit it or not, are in the business of calling attention to themselves. My own taste is counter-bohemian. My white suits came about by accident. I had a white suit made that was too hot for summer, so I wore it in December. I found that it really irritated people — I had hit upon this harmless form of aggression!”

There is no reason to stop here, though, as the piece has links to several old interviews which shed more light on the suit that reflects all back.

https://time.com/5278215/tom-wolfe-white-suits/

VR: Your age and occupation?

JM: 35, bespoke shirtmaker/founder of Hume London (a bespoke tailoring business) /co-founder of Quailors (a community of LGBTQ tailors to improve representation and support young talent in the industry).

VR: Your educational background?

JM: I first studied at London College of Fashion before going on to study bespoke tailoring at Newham College. I then learned my trade as an apprentice at Budd Shirtmakers, where I worked for 14 years before setting up Hume London.

VR: Have you any children or spouse (and how do they relate to your artisanal passion)?

JM: My husband is an interior designer, we challenge and inspire each other creatively everyday.

VR: …and your parent’s and siblings’ reactions back when you decided to become a shirtmaker?

JM: My parents are very keen on clothes, and always used to take me with them shopping; my dad is a customer of Anderson and Sheppard, a Savile Row tailor, so I was brought up surrounded by beautiful garments.

VR: What other hobbies or passions do you have besides craftsmanship?

JM: I love art and the passion you find in a brush stroke. I am a keen swimmer, I find gliding through the water very calming.

VR: How did you first become interested in shirts, and when did you turn your eyes to bespoke work? Why classic models instead of fashion?

JM: I knew I wanted to work in the clothing business, and at the London College of Fashion I quickly realised my real interest was not in the rapidly changing, seasonal world of couture but in making, and figuring out how things are put together. I followed that passion to the best place to learn about making high quality classic garments  – to Savile Row.

VR: How have you gathered your knowledge of the craft — from books, in-house training, workshops or somewhere else?

JM: The best place to learn a craft is by watching and doing it, making mistakes, and learning from them. I learned most of what I know from my time at Budd Shirtmakers, but since setting up Quailors I have met a broad range of tailors from many different skill sets (stage costume, film costume, couture, and more) with whom we share our knowledge and expand our skills. I also love looking back at the development of shirt making over the decades, I find you can learn so much from what has gone before.

VR: How would you describe the “House Style” of Hume shirts?

JM: Being a bespoke house the “House Style” is more a suggestion than a fixed thing, but in terms of a classic shirt it lands somewhere between traditional and contemporary. I love working with a customer to discover what really suits them and reflects their personality. I am known for my silk shirts of which I have a range of exclusive colours. I like to think my shirts are born out of craftsmanship but are always alive to contemporary influences.

VR: Do you have a favourite collar model and fabric weaver?

JM: My Cassius collar is my favourite, a long spear point, a very sexy, ’70s style collar. I love working with Alumo fabrics as they do the best quality cottons that are always lovely to work with.

VR: There are several fine shirtmakers in England — why should my readers try you ?

JM: There are only a few of us who still do the cutting and making ourselves and I can count on two hands the number of us trained the traditional way, and I would like to think we all do a good job. Someone might choose me because I have many years of experience, it is my passion to make the best I can for the client.

VR: What is your definition of a well-made shirt?

JM: One that lasts 10 years or so when looked after properly. It’s all about a balance, small neat stitches but not so small it ends up ripping the fabric, a neat, sharp point on the collars but not over worked. I try to incorporate hand work into my shirts where I can without it affecting the lifespan of the shirt.

VR: Who or what inspires you?

JM: A great many things inspire me: brands with personality inspire me professionally such as Maximillian Mogg, S.S Daley and Husbands Paris. A lot of my work is inspired by fine art portraiture. I am always looking at what people on the street wear and get inspired by trying to figure out why they chose that outfit or garment.

VR: Finally, what’s the benefit of bespoke shirts over very well made MTM-shirts?

JM: With bespoke the options are endless; as long as I understand what you require, I can do it. I am not constrained by a computer system limited to its programming for economic efficiency, I will do anything so long as it’s physically possible. Not to sound un-modest but if I can’t do it, no one can!

www.hume-london.co.uk