“My occupation is men’s clothing. I write about it, consult on it, speak about it, and design it.

Products from Pukimo Raivio

Kiton, grey sports jacket, size 50EU
Ralph Lauren, Black Label suit, size 52EU

I have been interested in clothing since early in my teen years (I was voted the best dressed boy in my class in secondary school). I blame my mother who to this day has more shoes than any man should contemplate. That interest was initially in the American Ivy style clothing that’s now known as trad, and I first found it at Brooks Brothers. What a great place that was, and when they lost their way in the 1970s I lost mine as well for about a decade. Fortunately, I found Savile Row when I began travelling to England frequently in the 1980s. That’s also about when I began to be influenced by Alan Flusser’s use of color and combinations.

I found, and probably learned the most from, the late English designer Hardy Amies. And I’ve borrowed freely from sources as diverse as Luca di Montezemolo (CEO of Ferrari) for office dress, Apparel Arts and Esquire magazine illustrations published in the 1930s, and the usual list of great clothes horses: Astaire, Cary Grant, the late Duke of Windsor and Gianni Agnelli. But books and photos are just the beginning, and I’ve learned the most from the weavers, tailors, haberdashers and shoemakers who have shared their knowledge with a hobbyist.

Not quite [seven] years ago I was casting about for something to do and ended up starting A Suitable Wardrobe because it occurred to me that the current generation of men literally had nowhere to go where they could learn how to dress with style. It was difficult initially as I was working alone, but I persevered and today I’m very happy with the friends I’ve made around the world and the great clothes I get to spend my time around. The site is attracting more than 100,000 visits every month, and half of the visitors are regulars.

We’re on a journey together, both those with well developed wardrobes and men who are just starting out. As I said, I began ASW as a source for men to learn about classic style and I definitely enjoy helping men start out with their first gray and navy suits and build from there. As you know, classic style has little to do with fashion and a lot to do with timelessness. A well dressed young man can attract a partner without wasting his money on high fashion items that look inappropriate in a year or two. Clothing is expensive enough without that.

My own style is a very personal version of soft tailoring. I acquire cloth from England and have it made up there and in Hong Kong. I wear English shoes, though I’m planning to commission a pair from Dimitri Gomez in Paris. And I get the odd accessory from Italy, most recently a pair of slippers from Rubinacci. Most of my tailored clothing is bespoke, because I care about fit and I get to have exactly what I want. That said, I don’t hesitate to use made to measure when it makes sense, as it does for Raglan sleeved overcoats as well as pajamas, shirt jackets, shirts and casual trousers. The only ready to wear clothing that I own is my raincoat, underwear, socks and pocket squares.

When I’m not thinking about clothing I’m blessed to have a great wife who has been with me for many years and a home on the sea on the California coast. We have house guests frequently on the weekends, and we entertain in what I think of as a California version of English country house style. We like to drive open topped cars to taste wine, eat great food, walk the beaches and through the Redwood trees, and give thanks that life has turned out pretty well for us so far.”

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com

Picture: (C) Dynamic Endeavors

~ Originally published on the 2nd of September 2009