‘I am 46 years old and, I suppose, the best description of my occupation would be “merchant”. My wife and I have three businesses, all concerned with the shoe trade. Obviously, we are Rider Boot Co., but we also handle the distribution in the US for Yanko, Martegani, Moretti (a new brand I have developed in Italy and am launching for Fall 2013) and are also showing the range of di Colletti & Borgioli to American retailers. I also do private label development for brands and retailers, and this is actually our largest financial activity…one we stay in the background with.

Products from Pukimo Raivio

Kiton, grey sports jacket, size 50EU
Ralph Lauren, Black Label suit, size 52EU

Finally, we handle the distribution of shoe care products from Tarrago & Avel, which is the brands Saphir, Saphir Medaille d’Or and La Cordonnerie Anglaise and Tarrago.  We have a nice little 6,000 sq. ft. warehouse and a few offices here outside of Richmond, Virginia, and stay very busy. We keep about a half million units of shoe care, and a thousand or so pair of shoes in-stock and available to regional distributors and independent retailers at any one time. Thankfully, we are in a growth phase in all three business at the moment.

I Went thru Catholic High School, but no College – pretty much went right to work. My family includes my wife Lisa, who is also my partner in each of our businesses, and 3 sons. Not sure how each “relates” to my shoe work but Lisa, who is mainly concerned with the financial aspects of our work, does enjoy, and participates in, the line building each Season. My oldest son is studying Marketing/Business at Virginia Commonwealth University now and will, most likely, join the business more full time after he graduates. Our middle son has no interest at all, and our youngest, who was working with us until recently, is more into graphic design and is now doing that full time. Each are very independent…which Lisa and I have always encouraged…and we’ve put no pressure on them to be involved in the “family” business unless they would be committed as any other employee. There would be no jumping in line or free rides.

Well, my Father was in the shoe business until his retirement recently, so he has always been a big supporter, and a great resource, for me and my Mother, while not really understanding what it is we do, is probably our greatest cheerleader. Like a lot of other people in my position, work IS my hobby, but when I do have down time reading and bowling would be my “relaxation”. I am fairly narrow-minded, and even my books reflect this…hundreds on the shelf and few outside of the 1935 – 1945 subject period. Never fiction, although world history written from the American perspective generally contains much that could be considered that –- or marginalized non-fiction, anyway. Regardless, fairly mundane stuff –- we don’t live a life as extravagant as many in our industry, but I certainly do like to take advantage of the travel that my work requires. I suppose that could be considered a passion as well, although I religiously avoid industry meet-ups when traveling, either here or in Europe, and prefer to manage around on my own.  Basically, I am boring.

I’m not sure I was ever NOT interested in shoes…growing up with shoes all around me, since it was my father’s business, I think it was just natural for me to do the same. I originally had a vague idea about becoming a history teacher, but being married at a young age quickly sent me to the shoe shops full time. I’m not in the “Handmade” shoes game –- although most that have this in their marketing toolbox aren’t either.  We’ve done some hand-stitched Treccia boots with Borgioli, but my boots are factory boots as a rule. This is a touchy subject, I know…and I’m not walking thru any of the 3 factories that I use for Rider Boot production and telling the folks there that they aren’t working with their hands…but this whole marketing concept of “handmade” is just another con by the marketers -– of which this business has far too many.

I was lucky, I suppose…at least for someone like me who wanted to make the shoe business a career. As mentioned before, my father was/is a great resource, but I also worked in shops that still had old shoe dogs who taught fittings, service, merchandising, etc. As for actual constructions and how things work, it was not until I started spending time in the factories in Italy that I really started to get a grasp on how things are done. This extended to the handmade shops as well, as connected to most factories in Italy are sub-workshops who pick up work to fill in the gaps of their bespoke work with the local factories. [As for inspiration,] I suppose it changes from time to time. If anything, I look back more than I look forward, if I am in need of inspiration.

I’ve been fortunate to spend more than my fair share of time their over the years, and learn by observing and listening. Our largest area of trade is actually private label-development for brands and shops, so I am active in, now, over a dozen factories in Italy, a couple in Spain as well as France. You never stop learning, and simply working there and being inquisitive goes a long way. Going back many years, I did refinishing, so that would simply be experience — which is always the best teacher.

It should be said, however, that I do very little with my own hands — some refinishing and some additional finishing on production goods here in my warehouse, I am a merchant. My knowledge is geared more to not getting ripped off, developing products, use of materials, etc., than worrying about what size awl to use. I seem to spend most of my time learning about currency fluctuations, DOT regulations, cfr-49, etc., these days…

Fortunately, the level of education, and availability of information, for consumers now makes me believe most know the difference between “handmade” factory and “handmade” in the lap footwear and other goods. Further, with the obvious exceptions of those with medical conditions and special fit requirements (as well as those interested in fantasy Western Boot makes), what is the point? True handmade would be a guy in a small shop, building a last off your measures, grading the pattern for your last, hand-cutting, sewing the upper (using a machine…does this eliminate the “handmade” stamp?), hand lasting, hand-welting or midsoling, handsewing the outsole, hand-finishing, then, after a varying period of time, delivering to the client (after numerous visits to the shop for progressive fittings all along the process)…all sounds great.

But there are precious few–despite what they say–that do all of this and, unfortunately, the end results are rarely what the customer expects. There are always delays, always problems (just like in factory production) not to mention the strong opinions of most makers that operate in this field, who, when faced with objections fall back on the “I am the maker and this is correct” response. The end results end up fitting no better than a factory make, often look like re-enactor boots, mid-century costume shoes, orthopedic shoes or, worse, fit and look like what the maker wanted as opposed to what the customer needed far too often, in my opinion.

I am very fortunate to have a large book of clients, and quite a few have also gone the “handmade/bespoke” route…it’s amazing how many comment to me, after the fact, the above as part of their experience. Few seem satisfied, many end up disappointed, and most continue to order stock or MTO handmade “factory” shoes and boots from us with good results. Of course, as stated above, I have a narrow view of things so take what I say as an opinion, not fact. I do wonder why so many of the internet promoted “bespoke” makers seem to spend as much time promoting workshops and classes than actually making shoes, however. So, no…I don’t do “handmade” in the truest sense of the word.

As for “fashion shoes,” I’m not sure what you mean. If you are thinking the larger fashion house-branded shoes, I actually think they get a bad rap, in many cases. The best brands–Gucci, for example–continually put on the market exceptional shoes from a quality perspective –- and pricing over the last 10 years has become much more in-line with quality. Sure, there is a cost component on the tag that includes real estate costs to be on a fashion avenue or in the larger department stores, but to be honest, most of the young brands that are popping up these days carry a FAR higher mark than the traditional fashion brands.

If the question is more about quality, then that depends on the brand…and, unfortunately, a few of the old, classic dress shoe factories have stripped the guts out of their production as well, so the difference, in reality, is far less than what they would lead you to believe. Compounded by the internet marketers/bloggers/forum posters who have not a clue, but fall back on stereotypes and uneducated opinions to further this idea. Note — If you do want to explore true bespoke with no bullshit, pay a visit to Tru-Form on the UES of New York…Paul is legit, if a bit crabby.

I’m not one to look to for style, I’m afraid…I wear denim and t-shirts, mostly. I prefer Raleigh and Hanes. When I travel or visit stores, I usually shop…no real brand or style loyalties to report — whatever I like at the moment. As for shoes, I always wear my own.

Pictured: the Hobo Boot

[I first found Styleforum when] Steve Brinkman visited Franco’s while he was writing his shopping guide, and he told me about the site. I joined and was very active for quite awhile, although not nearly as much these days. In the beginning, it was a great site for sharing information, general conversation, etc. It sort of evolved into something different, which is to be expected, and I have become too busy to be as active a participant as in the past. I always felt that if you couldn’t carry on a conversation it would change the forum, so best not to post. Also, when there was a smaller membership, the folks were genuinely interested in learning about the basics as well as new brands, styles, etc. — things that were hard to find out about when retail stores devolved into “no questions/no comment/whatever you want/whatever you say” customer service models.

Now it seems to be a more commercial enterprise with special interests actively involved. To be expected, but certainly different in tone than in the past. Unfortunately, much like the evolution of blogging, the amount of misinformation is overwhelming. There seems to be a lot of people, with limited true knowledge, perfectly willing to post from an authoritative position and, while I’m sure they mean well, their information finds it’s way into the public record and that is unfortunate. Far worse, of course, are the brand hawks, and there are far too many of them roaming around. One thing for sure, unlike the other forums, nobody from SF has ever asked me, or anyone I know, for free goods in exchange for “advertising and promotion”, so I respect them for that, and applaud them for continuing the forum even though it has to be a ton of work to manage. As long as people know not to take everything at face value, and dig for replies from informed posters, it is still a solid resource.

I started Rider Boot Co. to provide an alternative to the limited (at that time) selection of boots available on the market. Not that long ago, the only boots were the rehashed, standard production that the dress brands made available each Fall from their stock archives — a chukka, a wingtip boot…maybe one other each Season. Nobody was really focusing on boots, or offering a range of materials, colors, soles, etc. I had always loved boots all year ‘round (even hikers in the summer), so it seemed natural to try to fill that void with some of my own ideas. One of the first boots I did was the “Hobo Boot”, where we took a standard chukka, added a heel counter, the handstitched detail stitching and developed a last with a bit more swing and volume geared towards a “looser” fitting. Showed a few people, and it worked. We just carried on from there, although variations of that boot are still our stock & trade. Interestingly, I have never really gone and knocked on too many doors to distribute the line — but that is changing right now. We are showing the line to the trade at the shows over the summer for the first time. It’s time to grow a bit, I think.

So far so good…we have a couple of good partners selling the line and I have plenty of work that is done privately that most wouldn’t know about. But it is time to start to get my boots available in more spots, and, since we work on our own dime, we have been waiting for the right moment to give it a go. There are many more boot options on the market now, but we will continue to take our simply philosophy of taking classic patterns, realizing them in interesting materials and putting as good a quality boot out there that we can, at the fairest price. Hopefully, we will be able to see more customers thru new points of sale. Besides the above, I’m more comfortable letting each client determine [the goods we offer].

Not a lot of shoemakers [on the market], but there certainly are a lot of options, which is great. I’d like to think that, as any niche brand should, we are putting out something a little different, a little unique and of good quality while not caving into over-the-top, cartoon looks the internet seems to promote, and other brands fall into. My definition of style: whatever makes you comfortable and confident.

My tips:

-Spend more time supporting shops and less time shopping on-line.

-Realize that most blogs and fashion sites are authored by folks in someone else’s back pocket — reader beware.

-Don’t dress like a peacock — find your own comfort zone personally, and for your peer group.

-Rely on the advise of professionals, or those you develop a trust with, and not random postings on internet fashion forums. There is more bad advise, more misinformation and general bullshit there than even on the “pay me and I’ll promote you” blogs.

-Don’t let salesmen push you around…ask questions. Buy from those who treat you with respect. The biggest issue facing our industry now, in my opinion, is that more shops want to BE their customers instead of SERVING their customers. Buy from the latter.

-Find the best shoe repair shop in your area and support them.

-The old saw “buy the best you can afford and take care of it” still rings true.

-The Internet-driven opinion that Blake-constructed shoes are of poor quality is flat out wrong.

-The UK-orchestrated opinion that welted shoes are superior is equally wrong.

-Shoes don’t “break in”. Your foot does, however.

-Heavier soles do need to develop a flex point, and can sometimes feel “loose” at first. Don’t buy smaller thinking that’s a better fit.

-Your ball and arch are the most critical fitting elements in shoes…and it’s easy to verify the correct position. It makes no difference where your toes end, so don’t bother to pinch and squeeze  looking for where your toes are. If you were to lose your toes, you would still wear the same size shoe. If you place your right hand on your left, palm on palm, and slightly squeeze with your left fingers around your right hand, that’s how your shoes should feel. Totally free in the toe box and a nice firm feel around the arch and ball.’

http://riderboot.com/

http://www.styleforum.net/u/1731/rider

Pictures: © Riderboot