Interview with Rolf Holzapfel AKA bengal-stripe

0

March 12, 2013 by Ville Raivio

“[I’m] Older than I feel and older than I look (the second bit is probably wishful thinking). For what it’s worth, I am an academically trained art historian. (Speciality tre- and quattrocento with a penchant for “International Gothic” thrown in.) I’m on my own, so I can do what I want. Nobody complains if I eat the last bit of cheese. I did a course once (evening classes) at London’s ‘Cordwainer’s college, maybe 15 years ago’: Basic Shoemaking. I didn’t enjoy it very much as the aim of the course was to produce a number of different styles rather quickly. (We started with a desert boot, afterwards a lady’s pumps and a ‘elastic on instep’). So we were shepherded to ready set-up machines and told to push our shoes through. At the time I didn’t understand, why certain steps were necessary and what the actual purpose of some of the steps were.

Products from Pukimo Raivio

Kiton, grey sports jacket, size 50EU
Ralph Lauren, Black Label suit, size 52EU

[My knowledge comes from] talking to as many people as possible, everyone has different ideas. Like everywhere in life, things are not simple and black and white. Just avoid the front-of house people. As they try to sell you a product not yet made, they have to sing their own praises and put the competition down. I also have a number of historical books. KISS (Keep it Simple, Stupid). There was a time I would have run to every trendy restaurant and became exited by weird and wonderful, ‘modern’ hybrid dishes. Now you can please me with plain, traditional bourgeois food, just well prepared. Same thing applies to shoes or clothing.

I have my own last, I can make my ‘standards’ and design my patterns. Although I still have hesitations to cut into a hide, hence I get my closer to do the clicking. I work with individual artisans, who are also outworkers for the leading West-End shoe firms. This has also the advantage, if I am unhappy with something on the way, I can either change it or kill it. I still have an extreme fondness of Edward Green (although I haven’t bought any in the last few years). There is such a degree of being ‘right’ about EG shoes, which I find extremely satisfying.

[My journey to Styleforum was] hardly a ‘journey’ as in a ‘Bildungsroman’,   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bildungsroman  where the hero start off at a certain point and, usually after some difficulties reaches a much higher plain of wisdom, fulfilment and enlightenment. I just stumbled on SF when it just had started ten years ago and I just happen to be there still. I haven’t written as many posts as a lot of other people. Having been on SF for ten years, I have less than one post per day to show for. [Besides shoes] I have some 3000 vinyl records (down from 5000 at one time). It shows I do things to excess, which is probably a character flaw.

Less is more! (Ludwig Mies van der Rohe). I believe that recently Robert Venturi has withdrawn his “Less is a bore” challenge to Mies. You only need three pairs of shoes to deal with almost any situation: a black ‘Oxford’ (plain cap, no brogueing), a brown ‘full brogue’, with wing tip and brogueing to virtually every edge. Third one is a penny loafer (maybe in suede). Then, if you want to, you can go on to more fashionable styles (like a double monk). But you start with the basics.”

Interview_with_Rolf_Holzapfel_AKA_bengal-stripe_at_Keikari_dot_com

Picture: Rolf Holzapfel


0 comments »

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *





Pukimo Raivio.

Only a beautiful life is worth living.


"If John Bull turns around to look at you, you are not well dressed; but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable".

Pukimo Raivio.
~ Beau Brummell

Archives