‘I’m 27, turning on 28, and I am in Business Consulting in a Big 4 firm. I graduated from Paris Pantheon Assas University, which has a lovely situation in front of the Jardins du Luxembourg in Paris, and provided me with great opportunities to work in these charming gardens during spring and summer times while watching people. It’s known to be a good spot for model-hunters, I couldn’t agree more. Nevertheless, I can’t say that style is the main preoccupation of Assas’ students, though they’re probably more interested in it than many other Parisian students. This comment does, however, not apply to girls who were quite stylish. I live with my girlfriend, with no children. I have to say that she proved to be very understanding of my passion for clothing and never criticizes it. Sometimes she realizes the extreme aspects of it, like when I’m putting my 100+ ties back in order, sorting them out by color, fabric and pattern. Nonetheless, she looks terrified when I’m wearing orange or yellow socks, at my greatest amusement.

Products from Pukimo Raivio

Kiton, grey sports jacket, size 50EU
Ralph Lauren, Black Label suit, size 52EU

My father thinks I have way too many suits, shirts, ties, shoes but he gave up making some comments about that fact and still speaks some kind words about how elegant his son is. My grandmother likes very much the fact that I’m so interested in men’s clothing and loves the color diversity. My late grandfather was one of the most well-dressed men I have ever seen, with a way less furnished wardrobe than mine but always wearing an impeccable attire, even on weekends or during days spent at home. This made me very proud of him, as he was naturally elegant. Some people are seeking this effect their whole life but this isn’t something you can obtain with time, or at least with great difficulty, whereas it was entirely natural on his side. My sisters are rather neutral and don’t comment much. The elder sometimes tells me that she secretly wishes her boyfriend would dress more like me but such comments remain exceptional. I can’t say overall that my family is blaming me for my passion but they are certainly impressed, maybe not positively, by the size of my wardrobe.

As mentioned before, my grandfather probably had a great influence on me but the real trigger was one of my former bosses, back in the days when I used to intern in a boutique investment fund. His sense of style was great: suits of all colors, braces, lovely ties and oxfords with a patina. He invited me to “consult” with Michaël Ohnona, a Paris-based MTM tailor, a lovely man with a passion for elegance and style. I know most of Paris tailoring houses, MTM or bespoke and Michaël has undoubtedly one of the most refined sense of style I’ve ever come across. I’ve known him for more than 5 years and every time I see him, I learn new things. I respect him very much for that reason and with time, I like to think that we became friends. He also patronized me upon my first Rolex purchase, a vintage Explorer I. It remains today my favorite watch, despite my owning some more prestigious branded watches. Dressing the Man from Alan Flusser also had a tremendous impact on myself, especially from an educational point of view, sartorially speaking. He covers almost all aspects of menswear in great details and provides exceptional insight.

Your question is right on the spot as far as I’m concerned as I first developed an interest in fashion in the early 2000’s, and was a very active contributor and then-moderator of the CommeUnCamion community which remains, if I’m not mistaken, the largest French fashion forum. I then progressively turned towards elegance and style and drifted away from fashion as “fashion fades, style is eternal,” as Yves Saint-Laurent perfectly pointed out. This might sound like a cliché but it is the truest thing I’ve ever read about style. However, I still have and wear my Dior Homme jeans from back then and they remain some of the greatest purchases I’ve ever made for casual wear. I then started reading Depiedencap forum section and all articles I could find online. I left it quite quickly, though, as there are several harshly criticizing people without real extensive experience on this website. While this also applies to some members of the legendary Styleforum, some members such as Reginald-Jerôme de Mans and his encyclopedic knowledge, or SpooPoker and his great sense of style and color, made a great impression on myself.

It has been a long journey and it started with my grandfather, then with my boss at the investment fund, then with the Internet that is the largest information source one could ever hope to find. I ordered all menswear books and read all of them with great interest without ever discovering another Dressing the man. I spent a lot of time talking to MTM houses and bespoke tailors and learned a tremendous number of things that way. I have especially Michaël Ohnona and Andrea Luparelli from Sartoria Ripense (my official tailor) to thank for their knowledge and friendship. Tumblr is a remarkable source of inspiration where I am also a small contributor.

The greatest progress I’ve made is probably through the daily discussions I’m having with friends and e-friends that all are on the mailing list of Dirnelli. Most people would consider us a group of mentally deranged people but I would say we are a sartorial perfection-obsessed group of people. There are clearly different levels of dedication amongst us but I don’t want to point out who is the most affected of all of us in terms of the quest for the Great Sartorial Truth, he will probably recognize himself.

While I was at first obsessed with Savile Row, probably because of the legend that goes with it, I progressively turned towards Italian and French bespoke tailors and now prefer these above all others. Savile Row has a more structured, military approach of suiting that I respect, but I prefer the French and Italian. While most suit addicts know what English and Italian styles are, very few know how to describe the French one. It’s in my opinion the greatest one of all as it is a mix of English and Italian inspirations with a rather light-floating canvas, slightly more structured than the Neapolitan makers, but with the most incredible level of details and hand-stitching one could ever lay his eyes on. This is especially true for Camps de Luca, Cifonelli and Smalto. They are indeed more expensive than most tailors worldwide or at least on par with Rubinacci, Caraceni and Huntsman, on the other hand.

I am wearing very fitted suits with high armholes, trousers with single pleats and a 4.5cm cuff. I am obsessed with freedom of movement and this is the first thing I’m telling a tailor I’m about to work with: “think Orchestra conductor and if you know him, think Wilhelm Furtwaengler. Now imagine that I’m even more agitated and that I don’t want my suit to move around during the day. It has to be a second skin”.

[My go-to makers are]

RTW: Ring Jacket, Isaia, Belvest, Caruso are my favorites

MTM: Michaël Ohnona and Orazio Luciano

Bespoke: Sartoria Ripense, Camps de Luca

I started my Tumblr exactly when I discovered Tumblr as I thought it would be the best way to benefit from it. I started posting a bit about myself and to reblog my most favorite pictures, whereas I’m almost solely posting my own pictures now. I cannot complain about how I’ve been received; many people follow me, ask me questions and I’ve even had the pleasure of being featured on Putthison.com.

I am truly passionate about classical music and have been for all my life; my dad had a great role in that. My greatuncle was also a world-class cellist. I would dare to say it’s in my blood and, while I have not inherited his genius, I’ve been playing the piano for 23 years and couldn’t imagine stopping. I am actually listening to 5^th Piano Concerto of Beethoven while writing these very words. I am very much into travelling and write a lot of reviews and trip reports following my discoveries. I secretly wish I had been a luxury travel agent or luxury lifestyle advisor. Why haven’t I pursued that career plan? I couldn’t bear the thought of having clients with horrible clothing tastes, I guess. I also despise rude people and a lot of newly wealthy people follow this sad trend.

It does not cost more to buy a suit at the right size. That is the most valuable principle I would love people to apply. Never trust salesmen, especially at well-known brands flagship shops. Educate yourself online, it’s free and you can also ask people on Tumblr for pieces of advice on how to buy a suit. The second principle is that a Dior suit will not make you elegant or stylish if it’s not perfectly fitted for you. Just spend a quarter of that money to buy a suit at a store like Suitsupply or Boggi and select one that suits you well. You will be infinitely more elegant. Learn to drift away from brands and fashion houses, they’re not the absolute truth, far from it.’

http://paul-lux.tumblr.com/

Pictures: © Paul Lux