Interview with ‘Manofkent’

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July 18, 2013 by Ville Raivio

‘I’m 42 but still don’t have the answer to Life, The Universe and Everything. I work in the post-compulsory education sector, but not on the teaching side.I took a Law degree before going on to a Masters in Computer Science, both at the University of Wales, Aberystwyth (a lovely place to live). My wife has always had an interest in clothes and style so is very supportive. My step children have differing degrees of interest in clothing, varying from seeking my advice on shoe care to buying me nice accessories at Christmas. [As for my family’s reactions,] bemusement probably sums it up best. I enjoy photography, and take part in local community photography projects. I wish I had more free time to develop my photography interest. Bonsai is something I’ve toyed with over the years and I read a lot.

Products from Pukimo Raivio

Kiton, grey sports jacket, size 50EU
Ralph Lauren, Black Label suit, size 52EU

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I won’t say I didn’t have any interest in clothes when I was younger, but my interest definitely grew stronger in my thirties. I find fashion interesting, and whilst there is much that I don’t wear, I’m interested in several designers’ work and different aesthetics to those I adopt. I think as you get older an appreciation of the history of clothing grows. More classic pieces, or at least pieces that have a strong link with classics are easier to wear in middle age. I like the aesthetics of menswear from the ’30s – ’50s, but being fairly tall and broad, vintage pieces are almost impossible to find in good condition, and I don’t want to look like a museum piece. I like clothes that have their roots in classic British style, but don’t think style should be preserved in aspic.

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Obviously the growth of the Internet has seen a growth of information (and misinformation) on clothes and style from the past. I read a lot of books on men’s style and a love of mid-twentieth century British film provides useful ideas. I think I first came across Styleforum whilst searching for information on English-made shoes (one of my passions). What I like about Styleforum is the range of discussion – there’s something for everyone. It has a vast membership and consequently a vast pool of knowledge and differing ideas. From members who obsess over the tiniest detail and members keen to share what they consider are the rules of dressing well to working tailors with a great depth of knowledge, and members who just want to experiment, there are always threads that will enlighten or pique curiosity. Moderation is carried out with a deftly light touch which is rare on Internet forums.

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I initially started on the Classic Menswear (or Men’s Clothing) branch of the forum which is rooted in tailoring and business wear, but over time increasingly moved to the Street wear and Denim section which introduced me to contemporary designers and a freer way of dressing. The only other clothing forum I currently frequent is The Fedora Lounge, which has a completely different, but no less enjoyable, character to Styleforum, with a wealth of friendly members who are incredibly knowledgeable about hats.

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My dress is arguably a Jekyll and Hyde split. Monday to Friday I generally wear a relatively conservative suit and shoes, whilst at the weekends I can experiment more. Wearing a suit isn’t a penance, and does allow a degree of freedom of expression through accessories, particularly hats (a growing passion). In terms of suits I favour a slightly looser more traditional cut than many and find RTW works well enough, although I’ve semi-successfully dabbled with made to measure. I don’t favour any particular suit makers, but generally prefer 3 button to 2 button suits. At some point I might try bespoke, but that’s going to require more investment in time and finances than I can currently spare.

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With more casual clothing I’m not really a label chaser – if I like something I’ll buy it no matter who made it. Having said that, I’ve acquired a fair collection of Nigel Cabourn, whose reworking of workwear and expedition wear chimes with my taste. I also own a fair few pieces by Oliver Spencer, and a number of pieces from smaller British companies such as Universal Works, Common People and Cro’Jack. I’m currently finding some of the French heritage inspired companies such as Arpenteur and Bleu de Paname interesting, and one day will get braver and buy more Yohji Yamamoto. I like clothing that is rooted in older styles, but doesn’t slavishly copy it.

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I’ll shamelessly steal ideas from anywhere. I’ll take note of what other forum members wear, and what I see on the street. My sense of style is rooted in the past, and undoubtedly influenced by adaptations of golden age crime novels, Ealing comedies, old photos, growing up watching Tom Baker as The Doctor, and Patrick Macnee as Steed fighting villains in the English countryside. From time to time I will wear American pieces, but my influences are mainly English, unsurprisingly.

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[As for my style definition, that’s] a tricky question. It’s not just what you wear, but the way you wear clothes. Confidence in what you’re wearing goes a long way. Dressing to your environment is important – underdressing to make a statement isn’t stylish, nor is severely overdressing. What looks right in a rural setting will be different to a metropolis. Dressing to your age is important – a middle-aged man needs to avoid dressing like a 15-year-old (but be wary of age bringing unnecessary blandness). Be different, be individual, and don’t be afraid of experimenting.

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Don’t be afraid to experiment with what you wear – failures can be as informative as successes. Listen to feedback from people whose sense of style you appreciate, whilst not being afraid to go your own way.

If you’re on a budget, and most of us are, look carefully at how you proportion that budget. In winter, outerwear will have the strongest visual impact on an outfit; the savings made on buying a basic white oxford shirt over a more expensive one can be put towards a better coat or jacket. Don’t skimp on footwear – cheap and nasty shoes will pull down the whole outfit.

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Be careful to avoid buying too many statement pieces – yes, you’ll probably want the odd bolder piece, but it’s difficult to put together an outfit made up of a number of bold pieces. Build a wardrobe where you can mix the majority of garments together first.

Don’t be afraid to mix brands.

Be careful when shopping in end of season sales. It’s very easy to get carried away by a discount. Is what you’re buying a piece that you’ll wear regularly?

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Buy more hats and caps. A different hat or cap can transform an outfit. It might take a while to find a style that suits you, but there will be one.

Style has a lot to do with confidence. If you don’t feel comfortable in what you’re wearing it will show.

Have fun and don’t take it too seriously. Dressing well should be enjoyable.’

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http://www.styleforum.net/u/38324/manofkent

Pictures: © Manofkent


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Pukimo Raivio.

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