April 13, 2015 by Ville Raivio
VR: Your age and occupation?
IA: Now in March 2015 I am 64 years old (born in 1950). My occupation is business consultant and business coach. I help management to plan operations and marketing. I’ve been working with communications and marketing, both in advertising agencies and in big companies, my whole career.
VR: Your educational background?
IA: Marketing and communications at university level. But I started out as a Bachelor of Theology.
VR: Have you any children or spouse (and how do they relate to your style enthusiasm)?
IA: My wife (since 20 years) shares my interest in vintage clothes. She has an extraordinary collection of dresses and she wears vintage clothes almost every day. Since we both have reduced our weight almost 20 kg (40 lbs) since 2011, every garment we had at that time became too big, so all we have now are second hand, except for underwear. The two boys, twins, are now at the age of 26, and they are not interested in clothes — as engineers seldom are. But they accept wearing second hand and vintage if they like the garment. On a funeral last week one of them wore a suit from Corneliani and brogue shoes from Allen-Edmonds, both second hand.
VR: …and your parents and siblings’ reactions back when you were younger?
IA: Their influence ended in the mid ’60s. They were not interested in clothes. My mother helped me sew a pair of wide trousers in Bonnie&Clyde-style (after the film) when I was teenager. That was not so common at that time. And when I ordered a flower power jacket for my graduation in 1970 they couldn’t stop me.
VR: What other hobbies or passions do you have besides apparel?
IA: I have been hooked on oriental kilims and rugs, and have been chairman for the Stockholm Rug Society Pazyryk. I am also interested in surrounding topics such as antique peasant art and textiles. And we have a small collection of vintage bicycles just to be able to join Tweed run/Bike in Tweed. Since the 1960s, I have played the guitar and I have a small home studio.
VR: How did you first become interested in style, and when did you turn your eyes towards the classics?
IA: I have probably been a snob all my life, interested in beautiful things, architecture, design and clothes. As a boy I wanted to be a furniture designer. But I had more taste than money. In the ’80s, when I started to work in advertising and earn money, I bought exclusive brands. But suddenly, around 1990, I changed my style completely to a Less Is More-style — I wore black jeans, black t-shirts and black jackets with a Mao collar every day. And I have had a beard or a stubble since 1973. The man in black was the guy my wife met.
In October 2010 we spent my 60th birthday in Chicago and my wife bought me a hat. I realized that I was not young, hip and promising anymore, so I said to myself – now I shall give the old man a face. Jeans and T-shirts look pathetic. But what to wear instead?
A month later we saw a historic Dandy exhibition in a museum in Stockholm and there were some expressions of how a dandy style could look today. Five designers had been invited to show examples, and both I and my wife found out that the classic British gentleman’s style was the best style for an old man like me.
The 4th of February 2011, we discovered the second hand store that dressed the models at the Museum – the Herr Judit vintage store in Stockholm. I bought an elegant Italian overcoat, a green Borsalino hat and a matching scarf. My black coat I carried home in a bag. And as my wife tells the story; I entered the shop with a black Labrador dog and went out with a gentleman.
Now I have realized two things. First; what my new style and image should be; a gentleman with a suit, waistcoat, tweed jacket, cuffed trousers, suspenders, bow ties, hats etc. Second; where to find it — there are a lots of fine and cheap garments out there if you just look for them in vintage and thrift shops. But also in flea markets and charity shops.
There was only one problem. My size was XXXL/56 and my weight was almost 100 kg (218 lbs), and I am tall, over 190 cm (6’3”). There are very few vintage garments that fit such a big man. So I started to eat less, especially for breakfast and lunch. The objective was to be size XL/52. It took me approx. six months to reach the weight of 82 kg (180 lbs). And since autumn 2011, that has been my weight. And then the big vintage market was open to me.
“A typical match and a favourite: new cord-du-roy jeans, an English wool jacket for invalids from the 2nd World War (dated 1942), second hand boots from Crockett&Jones, second hand shirt and tie, a new belt made of a recycled English fire hose. On top an old Italian straw boater.”
VR: How have you gathered your knowledge of the tailored look — from books, talks with salesmen or somewhere else?
IA: My style sources and inspiration are social media communities like Styleforum and different Facebook groups. Sven Raphael Schneider at Gentleman’s Gazette has become a friend. I discuss with some vintage dealers. I visit exhibitions. And we have a small library about fashion. When you become a nerd – whatever the subject is – it is a great pleasure to seek information and you have your eyes and ears open everywhere you go. Wherever we travel, we ask if there are any interesting vintage stores in the city, and we try to get time to visit the best ones.
VR: How would you describe your style?
IA: The word Matched is most important. I always try to dress with the whole impression of my outfit in mind. When I was young and had a much easier style, I wore blue jeans, a surplus military shirt, an odd waist coat, but you can be sure my bandanna matched the socks.
The second word is Vintage, which I define as clothes with age in good quality. That means very few items made after 1975, when the industry moved to countries with cheap labor and mass production became big. I prefer suits from the 1930s to 1950s, but it is hard to find them. Almost all the clothes I have are second hand and some are real vintage, except for underwear and socks. But it is not so important if the whole outfit is from the 1940s or if it’s a mix of relatively new garments. The important thing is how the details match to make a nice and complete outfit.
When I am working I can’t shock my clients coming dressed in a chalk-striped DB-suit from 1940. I will look like a man from a gangster movie and they’ll wonder if I am serious. So, meeting customers, I often wear a more old academic style – a tweed jacket, an odd waist coat, corduroy trousers, brogue shoes and a vintage tie. Everything carefully matched, of course. I always wear a hat. And often a boutonnière on my jacket.
“A typical match: a jacket from the ’70s, second hand cord-du-roy trosers, second hand waistcoat and tie from the Salvation Army, new pocket square, and a bag from Palmgrens. This outfit I often wear at work.”
VR: Which tailors or RTW makers do you favour and why?
IA: I do not buy new clothes at all. And I cannot afford to go to a high-quality tailor. I can buy fifty vintage suits for the same money as one bespoke suit from Savile Row. After a visit to my tailor, a second hand garment fits well, not like bespoke, of course, but better than new outfits from the racks of modern fashion stores. The quality is much better, both the craftsmanship and the fabric.
Some may think that a well-conserved bespoke suit is the best buy. But it’s not a sure thing if it won’t fit your body. The open buttonholes in the sleeves, for instance, make it impossible to change the length to fit your own arms. The best vintage store I have found is A. Marchesan in Stockholm. A huge stock of suits, coats, hats and shoes, almost everything from before 1970. It is really an experience.
“The dogs just passed by when Jeanette Milde was shooting pictures for a book. The linen suit and the Panama hat are from Kanaljen in Söderköping, nubuck shoes from Grenson, the bow tie, the bag, and the glasses are old. The rest is new stuff.”
VR: Who or what inspires you?
IA: My wife. We have so fun discussing clothes. Fred Astaire, Cary Grant and other well-dressed icons from the mid 20th century look great. I collect old fashion catalogues and old DVD-films. I am active in vintage communities in social media. I visit exhibitions and read books about fashion.
VR: What’s your definition of style?
IA: Well matched colors and materials are an interesting mix. The dress must be well cut, have good proportions, high quality fabric and be a fine piece of craftsmanship. As a classic well-dressed man from the mid 20th century, your style becomes great. Then add some carefully selected details that enhance your style; like a vintage watch, old cuff links, a silk boutonnière, matching belt or suspenders, welted shoes, a matching scarf, a leather briefcase, and on top of that – a vintage hat from Borsalino or other fine hatters.
VR: Finally, given your vast knowledge on the subject, why should Keikari’s readers consider vintage textiles in home decoration?
IA: The most important thing, when you look at an old textile, such as an oriental carpet or kilim, is the quality of the colors. Pattern is not so important, but if the colors are wrong, the whole decoration can be wrong and unbalanced. And old textiles from the 19th century have warm natural colors with a beautiful patina that you seldom find in modern textiles. It brings life to a modern functionalistic furnishing that often is “lovely dead”. The room becomes more vivid and lively. When you decorate a room – start with the carpet. There are thousands of furnishing fabrics, curtains and lamps to match the carpet. It’s much harder to find a carpet that matches the sofa.
Photos: Ingemar Albertsson