March 4, 2020 by Ville Raivio
Keikari’s latest project is a made to measure tweed coat completed in co-operation with Bookster, the very British online MTM-specialist. To read more about their process and service, do read the prior article.
The coat is made from Highrove cloth by Lovat, a tweedy favourite mill of mine. The model is a common crombie style customised to an uncommon look through Bookster’s many options. It comes with horn buttons, a paisley lining, a newspaper pocket, 3-button fly front, half belt, longer length, and the upper collar as well as pocket jettings have contrast cloth from dark brown velvet. The parcel arrived with a suit bag and a cut of cloth for repairs just in case the coat gets hit hard.
My aim was to get a British tweed coat that has enough detailing to avoid a dull, old man-look. All of the custom details I chose arrived in the finished piece. There was no measuring or trial coat in store, so the coat was made to measure through the info I sent. I took a tape measure to my best fitting MTM-coat and left some room for errors. All of the measurements are also in the finished cut.
The shoulders neither droop nor press, there’s room for movement around the chest, the sleeves are long enough, and sleeveheads are high enough so that the arms have a wide range to swing. The length is what I aimed for and the coat has room for a jacket. The only iffy point is the waist which feels tight. I moved the buttoning buttons an inch and got room for more, but will likely have to ask my tailor to let out the seams. Bookster leaves at least an inch of seam allowances for alterations later on, so this shouldn’t be a problem.
In the end, I was very surprised about the ease of the process and the end results. Granted, my frame is slim and long and such bodies are easier for long distance tailoring than irregular or very round ones. I believe there’s value to be found through Bookster if the reader is willing to spend at least an hour going through cloths, comparing cuts, and measuring his best-fitting clothes at home.
It’s much surer to use a made to measure or altered piece of clothing than going with body measurements, especially online. The cloth selection is similar to what most MTM-companies stock, the scope of customisation is wide, and the company has decades of experience making long distance clothing. That’s the Bookster promise.