Keikari.com

‘Often, while I sojourned in that monstrous tuberosity of Civilized Life, the Capital of England; and meditated, and questioned Destiny, under that ink-sea of vapor, black, thick, and multifarious as Spartan broth; and was one lone soul amid those grinding millions; — often have I turned into their Old-Clothes Market to worship. With awe-struck heart I walk through that Monmouth Street, with its empty Suits, as through a Sanhedrim of stainless Ghosts. Silent are they, but expressive in their silence: the past witnesses and instruments of Woe and Joy, of Passions, Virtues, Crimes, and all the fathomless tumult of Good and Evil in “the Prison men call Life.” Friends! trust not the heart of that man for whom Old Clothes are not venerable.’

~ Thomas Carlyle in Sartor Resartus

Two years ago, GQ Italia shared a coverage and peek into the exhibition of Gabriele d’Annunzio’s unimpeachably naughty wardrobe. The dandy poet collected and kept personal hair from his mistresses; favoured silken, imbroidered underwear; amassed 300 pairs of shoes, the most personal of which hosted a phallus — and then there’s his contribution to the tender art of nightwear. His bespoken words were for a cream-coloured full length slipon nightshirt with shirred cuffs and a glorious hole for his last, best parts.

http://www.gqitalia.it/show/lifestyle/2011/5/gli-abiti-a-luci-rosse-e-gli-accessori-da-dandy-hot-di-gabriele-d-annunzio-spiegato-al-vittoriale-da-giordano-bruno-guerri

VR: Your age and occupation?

LG: I’m 41 and I’m the founder and owner of Giusto Bespoke.

 

VR: Your educational background?

LG: Graduate in Political science.

VR: Have you any children or spouse?

LG: I’m married and I have a child who’s 5 years old.

 

VR: How did you first become interested in clothing, and when did you turn your eyes towards tailoring? Why classics instead of fashion?

LG: Since I was a child I’ve seen fabrics, needles and scissors…my mother was a tailor, my uncles were tailors and I often played choosing my suit from the bunches. Fashion has a deadline and has no free will, be it officially fashion or not; style is about us, who we are, how we live — there is no comparison between them.

VR: I have read that you worked several years at Liverano. What was Antonio’s most important lesson for you during these years?

LG: I’m the nephew of Antonio Liverano, I worked alongside him and we made together many collections. This has given me the opportunity to learn a lot, but the great masters never teach: it’s necessary to learn from them day by day without questions or answers, by looking and adding…something personal. One important lesson: NO RULES, all clients are different.

 

VR: What other hobbies or passions do you have besides tailoring?

LG: I’m a coach at basketball. When I was young, I trained Kobe Bryant for a week at a summer camp in Italy.

VR: How have you gathered your knowledge of tailoring — from books, in-house training, workshops or somewhere else?

LG: Day by day from all people on the street, in my shop, at the Liverano atelier, in many, many factories…every day, everywhere.

 

VR: How would you describe your own dress? Apart from the clothes you make for yourself, which RTW makers do you favour?

LG: My models, my line are half Florentine style, part Neapolitan and Milanese tailoring. I have to make my clients feel good with their new suit…shirts…ties, denim… I like Isaia and Attolini too.

VR: How was Giusto Bespoke born and what goals did you set for yourself in the beginning?

LG: Giusto bespoke was born 5 years ago in my mind, and concretely 4 years ago, when I opened a Bespoke Shop in Florence. Now I have a show room in Florence but I closed the shop because I have many clients out of Florence and out of Italy, so I have to travel and appointments are necessary to visit my show room. My goal was and is that no one has to come to me to buy readymade. Everything is made only for him. Only one piece, never two exactly like each other…
VR: How would you describe the ‘house style’ of your cut and styling?

LG: Half Florentine style, part Neapolitan and Milanese tailoring. Anyways, bespoke is about proportions: do you like the end of the trouser to be 24 cm? Ok, I’ll do it. Do you like a short jacket? No problem, but everything has to be in proportion and harmony with the customer – and I have to like it too.

VR: There are thousands of tailors in Italy — why should my readers visit you?

LG: I haven’t an answer for you, we would have to ask my clients. Anyways, I’m not a fixated tailor: some make jackets but are unable to make shirts or ties well, some make shirts but don’t know the best fabrics for overcoats, some make trousers but don’t know about seven-fold ties. I’m able to make everything.
VR: Who or what inspires you?

LG: The life.
VR: What is your definition of style?

LG: Style is us. If we give a definition to style, it will become too much like fashion.

 

VR: Over the years you must have learned quite a bit about style and apparel. Is there something you wish more men would know? This is an extremely useful chance to have a lasting effect on many young men. Most of us aren’t born with rakish relatives, and this does tend to make the learning process of apparel harder. All tips and thoughts are valuable.

LG: I have nothing to teach but some questions I can answer based on my point of view. An example: if one were to ask me if it’s good to wear a tie with a handkerchief made ​​from the same fabric, I would say that if you like it and you feel comfortable wearing it; sure you can, even if the (old) rules of elegance say don’t wear them.

Pictures: Giusto Bespoke

http://giustobespoke.com/

The house of Lobb has shared the following scans years ago, but I found them too light, small and unclear. An hour’s go with Photoshop did the trick and English cordwainery has never looked better. The example pairs are smart, light, contoured, neatly finished and come with delightfully solemn descriptions in true English spirit. The catalogue offers great inspiration for shoe nerds and bespeakers alike — lasting value warms the heart.