Characteristics of Shetland wool
2March 21, 2014 by Ville Raivio
Shetland wool is the harvested and treated wool grown by sheep of the same name. This tiny landrace creature has been bred within the distant, hardy Shetland Islands, where the locals have tended sheep for their meat, fine wool and use in grazing. Oceanic climate, understated British temperatures and meek Flora have edified Shetland sheep into a tough and heavily woollen race. While not golden, their fleece has been used in the making of Fair Isle knitwear, lace shawls, export goods and tweed cloths for many years. So many sources tout the local extra fine shawls that I must join in on the shout: after all, these can be pulled through a ring, whether that of the missus or mistress, with ease.
In 2011, Shetland wool became the first inedible Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) goods from The United Kingdom. Breeders keep proud check of the local wool’s production and quality. To be granted the approval and stamp of wool merchants, Shetland wool must be soft, longish, very fine and wavy. A wide range of colours and fleece shapes are part of the breed’s natural makeup. While they handle the home islands’ climate well, Shetland sheep have been exported to many locations around the world, and they thrive in calm climates.
Shetland wool is warm, strong, soft, durable and the finest any British sheep breed produces. Official colours number 11 and shades 30, of which pure white, black and reddish brown are the most common. The Isles’ knitters favour undyed wool. White was very common before for ease of dyeing, but interest in undyed Shetland wool has risen. If the buyer favours these eleven colours, the breeder will make higher sums from rarer natural fleece. Many of them have names of few syllables after the Shetlandic dialect, and run like a moss-covered stream through the ear — emsket, musket, shaela, moorit, mioget.
Among style aficionados, one Shetland item rules them all: the colourful crewneck jumper with saddle shoulders and more or less nubby surface interest, a product of brushing quite like that on flannel. This carefree icon of Ivy League style is a nice and warm, durable and sprightly addition to any wardrobe. An examplary piece is the Shaggy Dog model from J. Press, with an inflated price but a solid reputation. Another item is Shetland tweed, which can do no wrong in any piece of clothing. The small and gutsy sheep grows miracles.
Second photo: Ben Silver
Interview with Juho Rehakka from The Nordic Fit
0March 19, 2014 by Ville Raivio
VR: Your age and occupation?
JR: 27 years this spring, working in finance.
An Italian job
VR: Your educational background?
JR: Master’s degree in accounting.
VR: Have you any children or spouse (and how do they relate to your style enthusiasm)?
JR: When you love all things beautiful it becomes something of a lifestyle that affects everything. My girlfriend’s gotten used to it by now though, so I suppose it’s a part of both of our lives.
Blue suede bomber
VR:…and your parent’s and siblings’ reactions back in the days?
JR: It’s been a very long time since I lived at home, but they were always supportive whatever I did.
VR: What other hobbies or passions do you have besides apparel?
JR: Having done sports daily since I was only a few years old, I spend quite a bit of my free time among physical activities. Gym, ice hockey, alpine skiing, football, badminton and running. Whatever time I have left after work and my daily sports time, I usually spend among style related matters.
VR: How did you first become interested in clothes, and when did you turn your eyes towards classic clothing? Why these instead of fashion pieces?
JR: I’ve always found aesthetics important, and therefore have always paid attention to what I was wearing. Previously a lot more fashion-minded, I started leaning towards more classic style and menswear about four years ago. I think the main reason for this change was that I had started favoring pieces that last longer and still look good years after purchasing them. Gradually my style started getting closer to what we could call the menswear scene, both its classic and street style influenced ends. That said, I think still today my style retains something different to many other enthusiasts. As I put it to my friend once, I wear mostly Italian clothing but my style isn’t that Italian.
Unstructured jacket with cashmere tie
VR: How have you gathered your knowledge of apparel – from books, in-house training, workshops or somewhere else?
JR: At first, most of my information came from internet forums such as Keikari and Styleforum, but later on I’ve mostly stopped reading forums. I would say the internet in general has the ability to teach you almost anything, and when it comes to the technical side of style it can certainly give you all the information you might need.
M-65 field jacket
VR: When did you decide to set up The Nordic Fit and what’s your motivation for the blog? How do you select the content?
JR: I started the site when I was living in the US in 2011. At first it was a bit of an experiment, but after a while I started having a more clear idea on how I wanted to develop the concept. Over 2013 I made some additional efforts to shaping The Nordic Fit into a site that would combine a presentable and professional layout, stylish pictures and interesting content. I usually don’t write about items I don’t like or recommend, so the goods presented on the site in some way represent my own taste. I find the internet is full of blogs that just reblog pictures, so I try to write at least some input into my every published post. When I have more spare time, I do like to write more informative articles as well.
Meermin snuff suede field boots
VR: How would you describe your own dress? Which RTW makers and tailors do you favour?
JR: Like I said, I wear mostly Italian clothes, but my style isn’t really all that Italian. I prefer my style quite simple and clean, if you will. Lots of plain colors that are livened up with textures instead of wild patterns. Furthermore, I find fit to be very important and this is perhaps where the Italians have most influenced me. I strongly think that soft and natural lines flatter a man’s profile the most, provided he isn’t very skinny. I also like my fit quite slim, but not overly tight.
I like most Italian manufacturers for suits and jackets. SuitSupply sometimes offers good bang for the buck as well, if their fits happen to work for you. I’m usually prepared to spend quite a lot into alterations, and would like to stress how important a skilled tailor is. When I shop for RTW items, I’m usually prioritizing material, quality and proportions. As nothing is gonna fit you right off the rack anyway, I don’t pay too much attention to things that can be fixed later on.
Lately I’ve started investing more into different MTO products though and will keep doing so, mostly because I’ve found it increasingly hard to find suitable RTW products.
A pop of colour in Drake’s form
VR: Who or what inspires you?
JR: I think my biggest inspiration comes from the daily weather, but also my surroundings in general. Often it can be a very little thing like seeing a picture of New York or something. On some mornings though, it’s just a matter of throwing some stuff on before leaving for work.
Suitsupply flannel slacks with moleskin jacket
VR: What is your definition of style?
JR: When talking about style in clothing context, I would say style is timeless, yet modern. Some things remain the same despite the latest trends, but as everything, style changes gradually.
VR: Is there something you wish more men would know about dressing well?
JR: Perhaps the most important thing is to avoid impulse buys and too specialized items. Build your wardrobe with patience and invest into quality. Before every purchase, consider if this is something that is going to last over time. Avoid sales.
Photos: The Nordic Fit
Category Bloggers, Interviews, Nordic Style
A Favorite English Sentence by G. Bruce Boyer
0March 17, 2014 by Ville Raivio
I’ve written this before but here it goes again: The Sartorialist was a treasure trove of inspiration back in the days. The Linos, the Lucas, the Lapos and all those Pitti Uomo guys as well as the many anonymous faces on big city streets had style. Going through the archives also came up with a little something by GBB for TS, a favourite sentence of one writer, a very cordial, very British spoken word.
http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/a-favorite-english-sentence-by-g-bruce-boyer/
Category Reading
That Brooks Brothers Look from 1954
0March 16, 2014 by Ville Raivio
Playboy’s February issue, 1954, had BB’s Ivy look pinned down like no other. When reading a few chosen Ivy sites and forums of today, it seems that not much at all has changed.
“The Brooks Brothers Look is not merely a look — it’s a religion.”
Category American style, Vintage
The truth on the origin of the Windsor knot
0March 15, 2014 by Ville Raivio
“The so-called ‘Windsor knot’ in the tie was adopted in America at a later date. It was I believe regulation wear for G.I.s during the war, when American college boys adopted it too. But in fact I was in no way responsible for this. The knot to which the Americans gave my name was a double knot in a narrow tie–a ‘Slim Jim’ as it was sometimes called. It is true that I myself have always preferred a large knot, as looking better than a small one, so during the nineteen-twenties I devised, in conclave with Mr. Sandford, a tie always of the broad variety which was reinforced by an extra thickness of material to produce this effect. As far as I know this particular fashion has never been followed in America or elsewhere.”
~ Duke of Windsor in A Family Album
Category Quotations
Copyright © 2013 Ville Raivio
