Interview with Tom Baker
0March 20, 2013 by Ville Raivio
“Tom Baker, 45, Bespoke tailor. I did a 5 year apprenticeship at Hardy Aimes (Savile Row) in bespoke tailoring, both cutting and making, and began my own business in 1996 immediately thereafter. No children. I have a long term partner who is often involved in key decision making but is not necessarily a design influence. I am first generation of my given profession in my family and have received a lot of encouragement as a result. I first became interested in clothing at the age of 7 when i used to accompany my mother to the haberdashery shop in scotland were i grew up. I was more interested in classical style as this was an area which was more challenging technically, as a suit either fits perfectly or not at all. It was this area of perfection and the need for specific technique to achieve it, which I knew would challenge me more in the long term, rather than the superficiality of seasonal trends which have become more and more ridiculous as the years have gone by.
I have gathered my knowledge both from in-house training and a personal analysis of how I could do things better, based on the techniques that I learned. Some techniques, of course, cannot be improved, although others I have personalised to my own view as to how i feel optimises the silhouette for the wearer. I would describe my own dress as a mixture of an 18th century dandy and a 21st century rock and roll star, but always done quite subtly (never try too hard), I don’t own too many clothes, just the ones I love. Our house cut is rooted in the London Cut. i.e. clean chest, exact shoulder width on the given frame, and a clean trouser line (neither tight nor loose.) The store was born through natural evolution and the building of a loyal clientele which financially allowed me to expand on completely independent terms. It has been very well received in general as I cater for all ages and offer flexibility in terms of style. If a customer wishes to deviate for what i am known for, this is not a problem for us as we are a highly creative organisation.
Never, ever let clothes wear you. Style begins with personality and it is the essence of your personality that you are decorating. Equally, be bold and confident about what you chose to wear as it is this confidence that will override all other doubt about how you feel you look. Never search for reassurances over this matter as that in itself represents doubt. I am very interested in contemporary art and indeed pursue it creatively in my spare time. Start by building the cornerstones of your wardrobe with versatile items eg. a smart black suit, a good dinner suit, a couple of more confident business suits, possibly stripes, and a few nicely fitting shirts that possess an element of neutrality to accompany your suit collection.
4 or 5 pairs of very smart shoes, a good overcoat and some matching ties and pocket squares, again which possess versatility, within your stable of clothing. All items should have an element of connectivity without being too matchy matchy. Equally some of these items should be able to stand alone with jeans and a more casual flavour depending on your occasion. Its also good to have one special occasion/party piece, a stand out in the crowd item, for that particular type of event.”
Pictures: © Tom Baker
Category Interviews, Men of style, Tailors
Keikari in Twitter
0March 20, 2013 by Ville Raivio
After years of hand-wringing and general dislike for 140 character musings, Keikari has joined Twitter, mostly sharing randon aphorisms and whatnot.
Category Site info
Young JFK’s Style
0March 19, 2013 by Ville Raivio
‘As a young man he [JFK] was notorious for his personal disorder. His boarding school roommates complained of his messiness, particularly with clothes. He would show up with his shirt untucked, or without socks, or wearing a rag of a necktie.’
~ Neil Steinberg in his ‘Hatless Jack: The President, the Fedora, and the History of American Style’
Category Quotations
Zip-related Genital Injury
0March 19, 2013 by Ville Raivio
“Abstract
OBJECTIVE:
To describe the epidemiology of genital injuries caused by trouser zips and to educate both consumers and the caregivers of patients who sustain such injuries.
PATIENTS AND METHODS:
The National Electronic Injury Surveillance System, a dataset validated to provide a probability sample of patients who present to emergency departments (EDs) in the USA with injuries, was analysed to characterize zip-related genital injuries occurring between 2002 and 2010. A total of 523 cases were analysed to obtain national estimates.
RESULTS:
Between 2002 and 2010, an estimated 17 616 patients presented to US EDs with trouser zip injuries to the genitals. The penis was almost always the only genital organ involved. Zip injuries represented nearly one-fifth of all penile injuries. Amongst adults, zips were the most frequent cause of penile injuries. Annual zip-related genital injury incidence remained stable over the study period.
CONCLUSIONS:
Zip-related genital injuries affect both paediatric and adult cohorts. Practitioners should be familiar with various zip-detachment strategies for these populations.”
Category Links, Tips, Trousers
Interview with Perry Ercolino
1March 19, 2013 by Ville Raivio
“I was born 31 March, 1951, my current age is 61 years. I attended junior college in Pennsylvania for 6 month and 2 years of University in California. After, I attended design school in Italy for 6 months. My only daughter is in the medical profession with no intention of becoming involved in shoemaking. My father at least knew that one day I would take over his business, and begin the process of taking it to another level. Something that is not unusual in Italian families when a son will eventually take over a family business. My interest in shoes started at a young age, maybe 8 or 10 years old. I settled my eye on classic footwear due to it’s timeless appeal and understated elegance. To me, this is something that will always endure.
Most of my shoemaking knowledge has been gathered by working with my father in his workshop and the many shoemakers & pattern makers I have met through either my work relationships, or my travels to Europe. My personal style is certainly a lean toward the classics, but with a slight flare toward some of the modern clean looks. We make and represent the best of the modern-day shoemakers, and we like to make & design shoes or styles that are relevant to what creates a classic and timeless look for the well-dressed gentleman. While there are many shoemakers in many parts of the globe, we have found that men, at least in this country, are trying to bring their business back to American craft people and support business here, me included. The idea of working with someone in this country has a lot of appeal to them now and in the future. Also, there has been a big resurgence here and overseas for “Made in America”. My favourite style of shoe is the “Whole-Cut” style, with an elegant toe medallion on a square toe last. One piece of leather with only one closing seam in the back. Very understated and elegant. My passions away from shoemaking are medium format photography and off-shore and match race sailing.”
Pictures: © Perry Ercolino
Category Cordwainers, Interviews
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