Rozsnyai Shoes for Keikari

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June 23, 2013 by Ville Raivio

A few months ago I placed a MTM order for the Hungarian firm of Rozsnyai. Below are some previews of my Budapester pair in the making, presentation and end result to be added soon.

Details:

-Fully handmade by healthy Hungarian hands
-Mid-brown buffalo leather
-Budapest last
-Half-brogue model instead of derby
-Dark purple lining
-Natural welt
-White goyser stitching
-Vibram Eton rubber sole

Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville16 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville15 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville14 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville13 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville12 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville11 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville10 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville09 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville08 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville07 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville06 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville05 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville04 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville03 Rozsnyai_MTM_shoes_for_Ville02


Charlie Davidson and George Frazier

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June 23, 2013 by Ville Raivio

‘George [Frazier] also spent a great deal of time back in Boston through these years—mostly at his father’s house in West Roxbury….but now and again at Charlie Davidson’s home in Belmont. Davidson was proprietor of the Andover Shop, a men’s clothing store in Harvard Square. He was a close friend of Charlie Bourgeois and George Wein, and first met Frazier at Storyville about the time of the Lee Wiley Adventure. The two men became fast friends. They discovered that their tastes in clothes, jazz, books, and good times were very nearly identical. Through the last fifteen years of Frazier’s life, Charlie Davidson was his closest friend and only confidant.

It is not unfair to suggest that Charlie taught George Frazier everything he knew about clothes. Though George had always been a natty dresser, he never tried to pass himself off as an expert in the field until he got to know Davidson and started picking his brain. Davidson would take Frazier with him on buying trips to New York. In the Andover Shop, George would stand at Davidson’s side as he watched his tailors cut the cloath for a coat or suit. Davidson was a big help in the preparation of George’s “The Art of Wearing Clothes,” a 10,000-word piece of men’s fashion that ran in Esquire in September 1960.’

~ Charles Fountain in ‘Another Man’s Poison: The Life and Writing of Columnist George Frazier’


The World According to Barbera

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June 22, 2013 by Ville Raivio


Inside the J.M. Weston Factory

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June 21, 2013 by Ville Raivio


Interview with Jim Ockert

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June 20, 2013 by Ville Raivio

‘My name is Jim Ockert, and I am President of Khaki’s of Carmel. We’ve got 15,000 square feet of a luxury men’s store, carrying the world’s top brands including our own J. Lawrence label. I have a business degree from the university of Oregon. My two children are both big personalities and definitely creative. Although not in our business, I’m very happy with their progress and enthusiasm and ability to develop their own creative endeavors. My wife, Connie, has worked with me as our chief controller and co-buyer. I’m a 3rd generation merchandiser, so I was fortunate to be around it at a very young age. Although my parents are long retired, they are very enthusiastic about what I am doing, and understand completely the dedication it takes on a daily basis. Well, I love design, especially architecture. Fortunately, I am in Carmel so I get to see many world class homes done in some very interesting old-school ways. I also bike and walk, and have a new city bike that is very enjoyable. And of course there is my 12 year old Springer Spaniel, Comet. I am lucky enough to be able to travel on behalf of Khaki’s of Carmel. Although it is work, I still enjoy it as much as I did when I first started.

I’ve always been interested in clothing. Even through school, how I looked in the clothing I wore developed into a real passion. Tailored clothing and furnishings is what I enjoyed the most, along with footwear. I’ve always tended to want the best: handmade English and Italian clothing and footwear. So, of course, that interest has developed into our own J. Lawrence collection of shirts, neckwear, khakis, dress trousers, sport coats, and suits. Our own unique designs, the best fabrics, and the finest craftsmanship that we can find. I am an avid reader. Beside all of the fashion publications like GQ, Esquire and the Rake, I also read daily the SF chronicle, the Wall Street Journal, Financial Times, and most architectural magazines. Oddly enough, one of my favorites is Garden & Gun – a great southern publication. [My definition of style:] Cary Grant, Steve McQueen, Ralph Lauren, Nick Wooster. I’m inspired by my parents and my wife’s parents. The opportunity available in the U.S. if one really wants to work hard, and has a dream and a passion.

My suits, sport coats, trousers, and shirts are all custom. I rely on Dormeuil and Barberis, etc., fabrics in my own particular cut. I like things a little shorter, a little trimmer and of course I love British shoes – Edward Green and Gaziano & Girling. I’ve got a special love for double-monkstrap shoes with a double sole, narrow waist, ram’s head medallion, natural edged soles, etc. For belts, it’s always American aligator with a sterling buckle. I’m never afraid of color. Since Khaki’s houses 2,000 ties from the best vendors, I have a large collection. [For RTW, I rely one] Gimo’s of Italy jackets, Incotex trousers, Seward and Stearn from England neckwear, W. Kleinberg belts, Italian cashmere 4-ply sweaters and of course Edward Green and Gaziano & Girling footwear, Levi’s Made & Crafted jeans – made in America.

Well, we’ve been in business a long time, but my goal has always been to have one of the best stores in the U.S. We now seem to have the location and the space to make that happen. We are in a cornerstone location of Carmel-by-the-sea, next to Kate Spade, Tiffany’s, and Bottega Veneta. This has always been my dream and we’ve worked at it every day to continue creating great customer service, great value positioning and our own unique style. [Our goods are] luxury sportswear and tailored clothing with a very large vendor mix. We shop the market hard and assort according to what we think our customers would like and appreciate. Fashion first and a limited amount of basics. Change is what we’re all about. Most customers in California, especially national customers, most definitely know about us. I think it is our product mix, our wonderful staff and our constency in these areas. Of course, 100 mannequins might help people remember who we are. We have no problem in creating an unusual way of showing great menswear.

I enjoy training and working with young people, and I think that training in our industry is somewhat lacking. I had help and the only request from those whom helped me was to help others. You can get a feel from what the bloggers think, who are mostly on the younger side, by going to Khakisofcarmel.com and reading their reviews. I love talking fashion and try to keep it all realistic. It’s fun, it’s work, but it is a business. As far as what I wish men would know, I think the rules are more open for dressing. If you love to dress, there’s nothing better. If you find a good clothier, they can show you the way. Well-cut jeans, a well-cut suit, a beautiful tie, can all make your day. The first appearance really is everything. We are always interested in training people about the menswear industry.’

http://www.khakisofcarmel.com/

Pictures: © Moss Media




Copyright © 2013 Ville Raivio





Pukimo Raivio.

Only a beautiful life is worth living.


"If John Bull turns around to look at you, you are not well dressed; but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable".

~ Beau Brummell

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