How Armani Changed Menswear
0April 16, 2013 by Ville Raivio
‘Armani introduced a new silhouette that resonated with men at the time and stimulated the wearing of suits again. The 60’s “cigarette” silhouette evolved in the 70’s in a robust way with concave/pagoda shoulders but still fitted very, very close to the body, Trousers were plain front but flared or bell bottom. Mix in the arrival of polyester and leisure suits in the 70’s and then the proliferation of wearing jeans or t shirts with jackets. Men were focusing on being fit and the suits at the time didn’t favor an athletic build.
Products from Pukimo Raivio
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Ralph Lauren, Black Label suit, size 52EU
Armani made jackets with extended shoulders, low buttoning point, low, sloping gorge, and brought full cut, pleated trousers back and men ate it up. You heard repeatedly that suits were finally comfortable and had some style. Armani also used what I refer to as “ladies fabrics”. He moved away from worsteds and used boucle and crepes. Very soft drapey cloths that salesmen would say, “it will mold to your body and shape.” The soft drape was forgiving of fitting inadequacies in a way that worsteds would not. Jackets felt soft and not as rigid.
If you are a lot younger than i am you saw the same thing happen when Thom Browne introduced the slim, short silhouette. Same story with a different approach for a different time.
Welcome to the style cycle.’
~ Chris Despos
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