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I’ve a thing for shell cordovan and particularly those from Horween, so a mostly definitive post on the various shades available came to my mind. The factory offers the usual black, brown and burgundy shell cordovan shades like the other few tanneries still trading in horse butts, yet there’s more treasures if one only knows to look for them.

Below are rounded up the usual suspects:

• Whiskey, a very light brown
• Natural, an undyed hide
• Black is black
• Color #8, a very dark burgundy or eggplant shade
• Navy
• Brandy, somewhat darker than Whiskey

Then come the rarer bits from top left to right:

• Color #4, a very reddish brown
• Gunmetal, dark and metallic grey
• Ravello, medium brown
• Vintage brown, darker than ravello but lighter than cigar
• Navy
• Green

More unusual shades among the regulars from left to right (excluding the last Chromexcel specimen):

• Dark Cognac
• Natural
• Color #2, red
• Color #4
• Color #8
• Intense Blue
• Dark Green
• Black

In addition there’s Carmina’s offerings from left to right:

• Saddle, very light brown
• Ruby, red
• Cognac, mid-brown
• Burgundy
• Black
• Green

Not pictured are the dark brown Cigar shade, Carmina’s Burdeos and Navy as well as Alden’s particularly dark shade of #8. In addition, Horween has made some shell cordovan with a grain pattern. These are the rarest of the pack, I’ve only seen a few pairs in Whisky, Black and #8 Grain. If I missed a shade or two, please let me know in the comments and I’ll update the post accordingly. It’s a shame we’ve only two feet.

Photos: Horween, original uploaders and Form Function Form

The reader must have seen quite a few presentations of Passaggio Cravatte’s made to order service by now. Mine is nothing novel or miraculous, but may have some interest for those looking to jot down a meta-analysis. I was given a tie in exchange for a presentation.

Update: after publishing this post in 2013, I have read several problematic experiences from various customers on their dealings with PC. Buyer beware, it seems.

Gianni Cerutti is a passionate man. With his partner in PC, Martha Passaggio, he has been on a mission since 2010 to create the finest neckwear available. Based in Robbio, a few clicks from Milan, and using Neapolitan old-world handcraft and vintage fabrics no longer in production, PC targets those in the know. Many of Passaggio Cravatte’s fabrics are several decades old, mostly hand block printed in Italy, and offered for as long as bolts last. The rest are commissioned reproductions of these patterns of the olden days.

PC’s ties are individually made to order, and the maker also offers ascots, handkerchiefs, bowties, scarfs and such. What’s different, though, is that PC has no store or showroom and the owners will rather visit their customers in situ. Those not able to visit the sunny Italy will be helped with fabric samples and photos. Although Mr Cerutti seems to convey his messages through Google’s fine translation service, we understood each other well. I was had at ‘hello, dear!’

I chose a mid-grey 1970s wool cloth from Biella with medium-size polka dots, self-tipped, with initials, a slightly longer 150 cm length, 4-fold construction and a thin wool backing. My requests were met and the tie is what I expected. The stitches are on the loose side but adjustable thanks to the slip stitch. All edges are hand-rolled by slim Neapolitan hands in Neapolitan workrooms in Naples.

The self-fabric tip and thin body will need a bit of time to get used to, but the wool drapes well and holds a knot as is good and proper. Passaggio Cravatte charges between 130 and 200 euros for one tie, depending on the choice of fabric and construction. This is more than the likes of, say, Drake’s, but the end result is customised. If a suitable fabric is found, the value and quality is there.

http://www.passaggiocravatte.com

‘As a rule of thumb: the most expensive clothes you’ll ever buy are the clothes you never wear.’

~ Brooks Brothers