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“From the beginning of the [18th] century cloth had been the correct material for day wear; its quality constantly improved and with this, the tailor’s skill in cut and fit. Soon these became the distinguishing features in the well-dressed, and though originally the Frock and Buckskins had been comfortably loose, now the grip of Fashion ordained a tight fit; ease was sacrified to a new ideal — to look ‘smart’… As the ideal material for a close-fitting was cloth this fashion encouraged the wider use of that material… By the end of the century woollen cloth had reached to the very pinnacle; in 1795 the King himself at a reception was wearing ‘a prune-coloured coat of broadcloth’, and in 1797 the Prime Minister Mr. Pitt ‘went to Court in a brown cloth dress.’

But the final triumph of this material came when the arbiter of fashion George Brummel [sic(k)] pronounced the revolutionary doctrine that henceforth a gentleman’s clothes should be inconspicuous in material and exquisite only in fit; and for this he laid down the rule that the only permissible material was — cloth.

Brummel’s conception of a gentleman’s clothes was, in fact, a fundamental change from a pictorial design to an architectural one; from a composition in colours to one in lines, marking a progress from a crude to a subtle method of expressing social superiority.”

— C. Willett & Phillis Cunnington in Handbook of English Costume in the Eighteenth Century

The Honourable Cordwainers’ Company is an American non-profit organization for all shoemakers who care about the Gentle Craft and its golden, traditional principles. What makes The HCC interesting is their dedication and online archives, whose golden scans include the free, full, famous shoemaking guide edited by J.H. Thornton, the past Head of the Boot and Shoe Department at the Northampton College of Technology. While the Textbook of Footwear Manufacture was published in 1953, not too much has changed in shoemaking since those days. The book’s very detailed and lengthy explanations are gold for all who care about shoes and want to know all. Some 600 pages deal with shoe materials, constructions, lasts, patterns, designs, machines, designs, buying and selling, stitching, quality control, shoe parts, lasting, welting, heels, cleaning, repairing, and finishing.

In short, this is the real deal for shoemakers and shoe hobbyists all around.

Head over to the HCC for knowledge: http://www.thehcc.org/library.htm

“Your dress (as insignificant a thing as dress is in itself) is now become an object of worthy of some attention; for, I confess, I cannot help forming some opinion of a man’s sense and character from his dress; and I believe, most people do as well as myself. Any affectation whatsoever in dress implies, in my mind, a flaw in the understanding…A man of sense carefully avoids any particular character in his dress; he is accurately clean for his own sake; but all the rest if for other people’s. He dresses as well, and in the same manner, as the people of sense and fashion of the place he is. If he dresses better, as he thinks, that is, more than they, he is a fop; if he dresses worse, he is unpardonably negligent; but, of the two, I would rather have a young fellow too much than too little dressed; the excess on that side will wear off, with a little age and reflection; but if he is negligent at twenty, he will be a sloven at forty, and stink at fifty years old. Dress yourself fine, where others are fine; and plain where others are plain; but take care always that your clothes are well made, and fit you, for otherwise they will give you a very awkward air.  When you are once well dressed for the day think no more of it afterwards; and without any stiffness for fear of discomposing that dress, let allyour motions be as easy and natural as if you had no clothes on at all. So much for dress, which I maintain to be a thing of consequence in the polite world.”

— Philip Dormer Stanhope, 4th Earl of Chesterfield, to his son on 30.12.1748

VR: Your age and occupation?
DY: 37 years old, occupation is actor.

VR: Your educational background?
DY: Kokugakuin University’s Department of Literature with a Japanese Literature concentration. I have not gone to school for shoes and clothes. I learn about shoes and clothing by talking to artisans and reading books. In other words, it’s self-education.

Viennese break

VR: Have you any children or spouse (and how do they relate to your style
enthusiasm)? How about your parents and siblings’ reactions back when you were young?
DY: I’m single. Because my mother wanted to be a fashion designer before, she learned pattern making and design, and she had been particular with clothes, design, coloring. I think it impacted me.

Norwegian styling from Foster&Son

VR: How did you first become interested in clothes, and when did you turn your
eyes towards handmade items? Why classics instead of fashion?
DY: Again, it’s my mother’s influence. And, Because I was a child actor before, I have appeared on TV programs. So my mother needed to regard to my fashion sense. When I was 11 years old, I quit acting for a while. However, I continued to have an interest for fashion. And, when I was 17 years old, I knew Alden from Japanese fashion magazines. I awaked to classic fashion at that time. I bought Aldens the first time at the age of 21-year-old. I cannot forget the impression at that time. However, I like classic fashion as much as all fashion.

That very first pair of well-made shoes: the Alden loafer

VR: How have you gathered your knowledge of apparel — from books, in-house training, workshops or somewhere else?
DY: Yes, books, in-house training, and hearing from artisans.

VR: How would you describe your own dress?
DY: Just wearing the clothes that I liked.

The unique rock walls of Inishmaan

VR: Which RTW makers and tailors do you favour?
DY: I favour tailors above readymade.

VR: Who or what inspires you?
DY: Craftsmanship.

Austrian shoemaking by Georg Materna

VR: What is your definition of style?
DY: Whether it fits my sensibility. My favorite is elegant, chic, simple, slightly cute, etc., very many styles. And, I think a sense of fun is important.

VR: You have travelled all over the world to meet clothes makers in many cities.
When did you begin this journey, and what is your motivation?
DY: The start of the journey is September 11, 2014. And the finish goal date is June 12, 2015. Wonderful handmade goods have craftsmanship and imagination and device. I want to know these. In other words, the thirst for knowledge and curiosity is my motivation.

Foster oxfords

VR: What other hobbies or passions do you have besides apparel?
DY: Watching baseball (Yomiuri Giants fan), comics, food and beverage,
coffee (handdrip filter coffee). Recently, I’ve begun to like sake (Japanese liquor). And, of course, my best favorite is acting!

VR: Over the years you must have learned quite a bit about artisans all over the
world. What sort of people are best suited to artisanal jobs?
DY: People of strong decisiveness, not indecisive, and not nervous.

Foster for the win

http://www1.odn.ne.jp/~aab38980/

http://dyshoes.fc2web.com/

http://daisukeyamashita.blog28.fc2.com/

http://www1.odn.ne.jp/~aab38980/myprofile.htm

Photos: Daisuke Yamashita