Keikari.com

Daily lore: an archived copy of Michael Anton’s speech at a convention for wedding planners. For some dubious reason this helpful primer has been removed from AAAC among other gems, but the Wayback Machine resuscitates the text with only a few photos missing. Wedding Attire in the Modern World looks at the options from the echelons of white tie down to lounge suits regarding choices for the groom.

http://web.archive.org/web/20111011094326/http://askandyaboutclothes.com/Tutorials/AntongiavanniWEDDINGATTIRE.htm

‘I’m 45 at the moment, working 4 days a week on the national HQ of a major hotel chain. The rest of the time and most evenings I try to work with passion and inspiration on my website Belgian Dandy. I have an MBA in International Management from Switzerland and a MA in Business Communication and a M.Sc. in Tax Administration (Belgian). I’m married and have one daughter…they both understand and appreciate what I do. Sometimes they frown a bit, but when I explain the how and what and why, they appreciate certain things as much as I do. Over the years they have both gained more sartorial knowledge because of me and like my style and taste. The funny thing is that now my daughter, who is 13, wants to start something similar; but with quite another approach that I still have to keep a secret!

Well, my parents always knew I was interested in fancy outfits. As I kid I always dressed up to play. Sometimes it went to extremes. In my pre-teens I had my knights ‘era’, pirates and divers. I even went to bath and bed with my scuba gear on. Then later on I lived a year in Paris, which was like an eye-opener to me. When I came back every now and then, they noticed I got more and more sartorial-inclined. They noticed and commented, but understood and appreciated it. By the way, the classic beginnings I learned from my father: How to tie a tie at the age of 8, do always wear polished shoes, sock length must be long enough, etc… He was a true elegant gentleman.

[As for my sartorial knowledge,] I went to school first at the Jesuits’ college in Antwerp. Uniform: Blazer and grey flannel pants, blue or white shirt and a blue tie. Then I went to the R. Steiner school and swore never to wear a blazer again. Since then, however, the classic blue blazer has become my trademark. Never stopped wearing it. However, my creativity, which was stimulated at the R. Steiner school and that “semi-artistic” part of my education, might be the origin and the inspiration of the colorful pants I like to wear nowadays. Let’s say it just evolved. Once you gather an eye for detail, the rest takes over.

I was almost obsessed for years with the English style, but in more recent years it has evolved into more Italian elegance. Over the year I’ve always kept on reading fashion and lifestyle magazines, and I gathered several books on the matter. I lived and studied in Antwerp, and Switzerland, worked in Paris, Bruges, Brussels (lots of travel to London, Dublin and Milan involved). And I’m fond of the Mediterranean region. Especially in France I like: Cannes, Nice, Monaco, and of course, my all-time favorite: Saint Tropez. You’ll see styles in Saint Tropez that are only to be seen in other places at least a year later… That gives you an open mind and perspective as well, once you know the basics. From there on you develop your own knowledge and personal style.

Glad you ask [about my hobbies]. They all do fit in the lifestyle picture. And the best of all, my family and friends can enjoy and appreciate it as well. I’m a very passionate cook. We like to go to good restaurants, and I very much like to cook for my family and friends. The molecular cuisine caught my attention a few years ago for a while, but it evolved into a quest for better quality of ingredients. Now we’re in a period of trying all kinds of beef, dry-aged takes away my interest. We tried 21 in the last months. And we like sailing/yachting a lot! Just one day sailing from morning till dawn and you have the feeling you’ve been on holiday for a week. It’s so relaxing…but do not forget that a twin-engine powerboat can give a lot of kicks as well.

Sounds and waves included! And, besides the fact that I passionately do hate traffic jams, in which I happen to be quite a lot, I still enjoy driving the finer cars. The roar of a powerful V8-engine gets my blood flowing, the acceleration of an Italian sport scar, the luxury of a British icon…and I like my Range Rover a lot. It is indeed a luxury car, but its capabilities off-road are stunning, even with standard tires. So whenever I get the chance…

As I said before, when I was a kid I liked to dress up. Later, before my pubertal years I was more into uniforms and into WWII and paraded around as a true GI. Later on, when I became more adult, the true sartorial feeling came. And I became more discerning. A few short times I’ve been caught in the trap of seasonal fashion, and was a true snob, but in the end, as we all know, only the classics stay (in a more or less contemporary or updated version). As in the previous example, as a kid I dressed up: When I was a diver, I was Jacques Cousteau, when I was a GI, I was General Patton, etc… My Range Rover is not a fashionable SUV either, it’s an iconic classic. So one can say iconic things, which are by definition classics are what I have a soft heart for. That goes for style as well. Heritage and the classics go fine together from my point of view.

I don’t really like to give a name to my own dress. I prefer to think of it a personal style I developed over the years. I like the combination of casual and dress. Like jeans and a double-breasted blazer. Be it colorful jeans or chinos with a classic blazer, you never can go wrong in my opinion. Winter or summer, I always mix it with some bright colours. Be it a scarf or tie, or socks. For summer, I’m quite now into the unconstructed or de-constructed style Italian jackets and blazers, and if really hot, preferably in linen.

Although I haven’t got a piece of clothing from them, I’m a big fan of Cifonelli in Paris. They have some exceptional jackets. Their style is unique. Bespoke, of course, yet unique when concerning finish and details! For shirts, my personal preference goes to a small bespoke atelier in Italy, run by Firenzo Auricchio: D’Avino Sarto Camiciaio. They don’t advertise. This jewel is hard to find. Every stitch of the shirt is done by hand. The exceptional quality and fit of these shirts is hard to find at other places. For RTW, I’m a big fan of Massimo Dutti. They offer elegance at a price/quality ratio that is more than acceptable. For pants, both RTW and bespoke I like Borélio and PT01. Borélio now has to possibility to personalize your chinos.

The Belgian Dandy website originated from a blog I started a few years ago and which was only in English. It was received quite well in the beginning by the international community. I have received several requests to make it into a site in multiple languages, so I turned the site version as well (the blog is still there) which exists in Dutch, English and French. Since then, visitors have skyrocketed. The blog originated from a passion, a way to explain to people why I appreciate and wear certain things. You could say it all originated from passion.

[As for choosing site content,] well, that’s hard to say. Products manufactured in an “artisanal” way get great appreciation, but anyway, they’d have to be something I’d wear. My taste, my style. Otherwise I would never write an article about them; I’m not an Internet-whore who writes about and for everybody who contacts me or wants to pay me. I’m still kind of an idealist! My name, image and person is connected to it, so I have to stay selective. In short: Products that have something that I appreciate, that have some added value. Stylish, tasteful, exclusive or made with passion…

Well, one of the basic books that inspired me is: “The Gentleman” by Bernhard Roetzel. All the basics of classical menswear can be found here. Quite essential. Consider it a bible. My advice: Look at what you like. Look around you. From there on, take the journey of discovery! If you have a limited budget, buy RTW or even go to thrift shops where you can find some jewels. Even if going for RTW that doesn’t fit you 100%, buy it if you really like it, and then take it to a sewing atelier (or to your beloved grandma) and have it adjusted like you want it for that perfect fit. It will cost you only “a few bucks,” but for most people it will look like you’re wearing bespoke! Some sprezzatura is also something that will definitely add to your outfit and personal style, and some things do come cheap! But those kinds of things, like a nice pair of cufflinks, a nice “pochette” or scarf can change your look immediately!

And one more thing I would like to add. Try to find your own style. Something that is standard for you. For me, it’s the blue blazer, preferably in navy, and double-breasted. The funny thing is: I used to go to a Jesuit college where I had to wear a uniform, blue blazer included. But then I went to high school at a Rudolf Steiner school (which surely stimulated my creativity and appreciation of other peoples tastes and styles), and I swore never, ever to wear blazers again. Well, guess what, my first day at the Steiner school…I wore a blue blazer. Those were the clothes I had. So, for a few years my rebellious side took over. When I left the R. Steiner school to go to university, I bought a classic double breasted navy blazer…and never stopped wearing it since then. Now it has become my trademark: Raphaël with his blue blazer! Winter or summer, lined, unlined, wool to linen, etc…create your own personal trademark!

So now I would like to thank Keikari for the interest shown in me, and for the interview. I wish Keikari a great future!’

Pictures: © Raphaël van den Poel

http://www.belgiandandy.be/

‘I’d like to keep my age mysterious and keep people guessing! I am the founder and creative director of the Norwegian lifestyle brand SWIMS AS. Being interested in design, I decided to study at Parson’s. Not only to learn about design — but also the business side of the fashion industry. I do not have any kids nor am I married. I come from an entrepreneurial family and have been inspired by both my father and grandfather in starting my own business, therefore I have always had a wholesome backing and approval from my family. I love the alps, I am a passionate hiker and skier.

My interest in shoes began when I stole my grandfather’s overshoes — he was a real old school gentleman. I guess he made me aware of this type of product, but it was not until I moved to Paris and subsequently New York that I saw so many people wore beautifully crafted shoes in the rainy and dirty streets. I eventually realized there was a market for this niche of bringing back the galosh. Most people viewed the galosh as an odd and old-fashioned product, something their grandfathers would wear back in the days! But I firmly believed that by making the design more modern and elegant, adding colors and a sense of ”fun” to the product, the galosh would become modern again. Now you can see SWIMS everywhere, people from 15 to 80 are wearing them. I think it’s a combination of two things — it’s trendy and people want to protect their expensive leather shoes. People own several pairs — they want different colors. We have even launched a special galosh for sneakers, the SWIMS City Duck — for the sneaker freaks out there! This all ultimately evolved into a passion for reinventing other classics such as the loafer and the brogue.

During my university days I was always fascinated by shoes and often snuck away from classes to go to the sculpture lab, so shoes have always been something I have been very fascinated by. As I began planning and starting the company, I had to do a lot of research. Already being quite familiar and passionate about shoes I felt that overall the most important things for me to research were technical aspects of shoes and material. I already knew a lot about style but needed to familiarize myself with the concept of intelligent shoes which I did through meeting the right people and also through books and the Internet.

When it comes down to the name, I came up with the name SWIMS on a rainy day in New York. I wrote it on a window and quickly found out that you can read the name upside/down and from right to left, etc. It’s a easy and fun name with connotations to water. Initially the idea was to have people feel good about the rain and wet streets — giving them an option to wear their best shoes no matter weather — just slip on a pair of SWIMS. But the name is really great and works perfectly with our DNA and core values. I think its very important to love what you do and believe in it. You need to have a good portion of common sense and stamina is definitely very important.

City Duck model for sneakers

This has kept me going in the creation and the development of the company. So far we have been very well received, we are growing rapidly despite the economic downturn and increasingly more people are becoming aware of our brand, which is very exciting. We have recently opened an Instagram account and are growing everyday alongside our Facebook page with more and more positive and exciting comments coming our way! Lots of customers are posting cool photos of themselves in their SWIMS and they seem to be very happy and proud to be part of it all. It is always fun to see your happy customers want to display what they have bought from you!

I’m very easy going, I don’t like looking too stiff/made up. A comfortable look is what I always end up with. My sense of style comes from my travels (I travel a lot). I would have to say my favorite RTW brand is Prada. I prefer casual footwear but if I am wearing a suit then I go for sleek and classic shoes.

For the #menswear dilettante: camo galoshes

[The reader should choose SWIMS as] the SWIMS rubber overshoe is made with attention to detail. Our “cashmere rubber-blend” is a result of extensive research and development and a bit of luck, too, I suppose. The rubber is snug and smooth and adapts to any shoe shape through great elasticity. Another major part of the SWIMS galosh is our signature lining. Not only does it provide a luxury feel and touch, it also has paramount functionality. First of all, the lining is smooth and gentle for leather shoes, it really removes the friction between the rubber and the leather. Secondly, it makes it easier to slip on and slip off. Thirdly, it absorbs condensation. Finally, it is warm and comfortable on those cold winter days.

The SWIMS galosh stands out not just because of the quality but also because of the design. It comes in two different shapes — the Classic and the Duck — and therefore can appeal to different targets as well as different shoes. We also have different colors, both bright and classic as well as different textures (the Classic Royal is flocked on the outside, giving it a nice velvety effect).

If there is one thing men should know, it’s: do not underestimate the damage rain can do to a good shoe! By using an overshoe/galosh, your favorite leather shoes will have a much longer life. Great shoe manufacturers always say that you can “just resole the shoe” if it’s damaged — but in reality very few people do — it takes a very long time and comes with a price similar to buying a new pair of shoes.

This is one of the reasons I am so passionate about my company because we make lots of cool, practical but also elegant, modernized versions of the classics, but we also make this wonderful galosh that can protect all of my beautiful English leather shoes.’

http://www.swims.com/

Pictures: © SWIMS