Keikari.com

Skip to navigation
Skip to main content
Skip to secondary content
Skip to footer

Interview with Yukiko Okawa Bassett from Bench Made

September 23, 2013 by Ville Raivio

‘I am 44 years old. I run and teach at my own school of bespoke shoe making and also make classic bespoke shoes for private clients. I have graduated from Cordwainers College in London. I have a 14 year-old-son. He is very understanding of my work and tries not to be so demanding of my time when I have to work late to meet a deadline. He is interested in shoe making but I’m not sure if he wants to be a shoemaker in the future. My parents never really expressed any particular view on my work as shoemaker or designer. I think they were happy though when I found something which interested me as I had been quite a crazy teen by Japanese standards.

My father even made space for me in his company so that I could launch my shoe business from there once I returned from England, so I guess they supported me in that quite traditional Japanese way. I play the guitar. Music has always been an inspiration and given me great joy over the years. I have an extensive collection of original Blue Note jazz and ska records. When I was younger I played Jazz trumpet and even made a single with the band I was with. The most important aspect [of my style] is how my clothes fit, they should also match my character. My favorite style is Tailored, of course.

When I was kid, my house job was polishing the shoes for my family. That was the time I became interested in shoes, I always wondered how shoes were made. I also thought that shoes are so beautiful and I fell in love with them. When I graduated from a Japanese university, I worked at a shoe company as a designer. I didn’t know how to become a shoemaker. So I thought if I became a shoe designer, I could meet shoe makers and learn from them.

But Factory shoemaking was not what I was looking for. So I quit the company and found a shoemaking workshop where I could begin to learn how to make shoes by hand. I was at the workshop for 2 years. But I wanted to learn a more classic style of shoemaking. I had seen the shoes in John Lobb’s store in Ginza and they had a profound effect on me, I wanted to be able to make shoes like that. It gave me a strong desire to become a shoemaker at John Lobb’s. So I decided to go to England and learn the techniques of classic shoemaking. I went to the Cordwainers college and learned shoemaking. During that time I had work experience at John Lobb. And after I graduated I was able to get a job there. I learned every part of shoemaking from beginning to end at John Lobb’s.

It takes 5 highly skilled people to make 1 pair of bespoke shoes. But I wanted to be able to take the making through every step of the process myself. So I thought I should open my own shop. I also wanted to introduce the English style of shoemaking to Japan. First I started a shoemaking school. And the next year I started my own Bespoke shoe line catering to the needs of individual private customers. I didn’t have any goals really; I just love to make shoes. Bespoke shoemaking is so deep. People have got two feet. Nobody has the same left and right feet. 10 people have 20 different feet. And every person has a different taste in shoes. So I learn many new things every day, it is never-ending. I want to be able to pass my knowledge and experience on to the next generation.

I haven’t got my own house style. I make the shoes that the customer wants. I try to hide my opinion until unless customer asks me specifically for suggestions. I make my shoes for the customer, not for me. So I don’t feel the need for a house style. My favourite model is Oxford. Oxford has very beautiful lines. None of the lines are wasted in Oxford shoes. The lines are simple, classic and beautiful; it is, I feel, the most functional of designs. The shoes I make are one-off originals; they are chosen by the customer and made to measure — there are no two pairs of my shoes alike.

I think the most important thing about shoes is the fitting. I meet every customer and discuss their lifestyle, taste and any problems they have had with badly fitting shoes in the past. Then I will make their shoes. I am in control of the whole process from taking their measurements to making make a pair of Lasts. I draw the design, make the pattern, do the closing, and make the shoes. At all times throughout this process I consider the customer’s needs. Most people try to fit their feet to the shoes they like and so they can often damage their feet for the sake of style. With my shoes, they are made solely with the feet of the customer in mind, allowing the feet to remain free and comfortable without causing pain or damage.

[My advice:] people should consider their feet and the fitting of their shoes. Most people don’t understand about the importance of their feet to their general wellbeing. The foot has 26 bones. Each person’s bones have different sizes. But people who shop at readymade stores must choose shoes in size selections, so most people wear shoes which are too big or too small.

Bespoke shoes are your partner in life. If your shoes are uncomfortable, you may feel good on the outside to be wearing a stylish shoe, but physically you are causing yourself a lot of problems that may cause pain and discomfort for years to come.

With bespoke shoes, you don’t have stress from your feet. They are beautiful, each one is a work of art and love, shoes like these make you happy. When you are tired, your eye goes down, then you see your beautiful bespoke shoes and definitely you will smile.’

Photos: © Yukiko Okawa Bassett

http://benchmade.jp

Category Cordwainers, Interviews, Japanese Style

Interview with Jerrod Swanton from Oxfordclothbuttondown

September 22, 2013 by Ville Raivio

‘I am 34 years old and work in search engine marketing and optimization. I got my undergraduate degree from Wittenberg University, a private liberal arts university located in Ohio. I am currently single and do not have any children. Besides working on my blog, thrifting and learning more about clothing, I enjoy reading classic literature and staying physically active. I have been interested in design and style ever since I was a child. It didn’t matter if it was architecture, automobiles, or clothing. There were always certain shapes, colors and textures that I was drawn to more than others. I think that I really got interested in clothing at about age 12.

At that age, I wasn’t interested in classic clothing, but I started to become very conscious about the way people constructed outfits and how they styled their clothing. As a teen, I became drawn to classic clothing, but it wasn’t until I graduated college and entered the workforce that I found the style that could be referred to as Trad (whether or not Trad is an actual thing is grounds for another discussion), I often explain my style as boring preppy.

In Southwick jacket and Fox tie

I was naturally attracted to classic dress. I am not sure why, but it always seemed to me that this is the way that a man should dress. This may be because of the men that I saw dressing in this manner and my admiration for them. I was also drawn to it because it is simple, utilitarian, and it allowed me to fit in at the workplace. It is important for me to note this, because I was never taught about business dress by my father. Like many baby boomers he despised what he considered “dressing up.” So, he invested little time and energy in his wardrobe. This left me to find my own way. Learning how to dress in this manner helped me gain confidence in my appearance. It taught me how to be seen, but not heard, if that makes sense. It also led me to my own style mantra, “Simple, classic, boring”, which has served me well.

Brooks Brothers navy sack blazer

I began learning about classic American dress through observation. I picked up the basics like blue OCBDs, flat front chinos, Shetland crew neck sweaters and penny loafers; however, it wasn’t until around 2007 – 2008 or so that I stumbled upon Ask Andy’s Trad Forum. Before this, I didn’t know that there were so many people interested in this style, and that it had a term (Trad) that described it. This forum contained a wealth of information on the subject and pointed me to a lot of other resources such as Ivy-Style.com, O’Connell’s Clothing, and many others. I still frequent the Trad Forum along with a handful of other forums, but now I am more influenced by a few specific contributors than by the forums as a whole. I also study old magazines, yearbooks, movies, a handful of blogs, and I still “people watch” with great enthusiasm.

I started my blog a little over two years ago. I have always liked to do research. My blog gave me the chance to combine this with my interest in style and a platform to curate my findings. I think that my blog is a little different than a lot of the blogs in the Trad/Ivy/Preppy niche. I don’t just alert readers to new products or cover historical aspects. Instead, I try to offer a mix of posts that covers historical images, architecture, reviews of products, “how to” articles, and to share my own sartorial growth with my readers. I would say that the biggest difference is that I include a lot of personal narrative. The blog has been a lot of fun, and I am excited to see where it goes in the future.

I have come across lots of great vintage pieces over the past few years. I would have to say that my favorite makers from the past are Brooks Brothers and Deansgate. For me it is all about a great natural shoulder. I have also found a lot of great pieces from defunct menswear shops that have no maker labeled. My tailor is always amazed at the things that I bring in for him to work on. Currently, I think that the MTM Southwick Cambridge model is the nicest jacket available in terms of soft shoulder tailoring with a 3/2 roll. I am also excited to see Brooks Brothers reintroduce their Own Make line.

I have learned a lot about traditional American style over the past few years. I think that there are a few important points that are often overlooked. The first is that traditional American style is still very much alive in America, at least it is where I live in the Midwest, and it is especially more common in conservative industries albeit in a more watered downed version than what they were wearing during the Ivy League boom years, but it is still around. The second important point to remember is that, despite the very casual dress code of today’s climate, traditional American dress is a casual style that hinges upon never being too dressed up or too underdressed. The third, and most important point in my opinion, is that by dressing in this manner you will never be in style, but you will always look correct.’

Photos: © Jerrod Swanton

http://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/

Category American style, Bloggers, Interviews

Factory Tour at James Ince&Sons

September 21, 2013 by Ville Raivio

Aqueous lore: The Gentle Author visited umbrella makers James Ince&Sons back in January 2011 with an extensive interview and coverage. Now in its sixth generation of Inces, JI&S titles and prides itself as the oldest masters of umbrellas in Great Britain. While their website is in desperate need of revamping and updating to the second millennium, the make, styling and quality seem to be very British and very high. As is good and proper.

http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/01/20/at-james-ince-umbrella-makers/

Category British Style, Links, Quality makers

Interview with Peter Manning

September 21, 2013 by Ville Raivio

‘I am 45 and founder and designer for Peter Manning Five Eight/New York, a clothing company for men 5’8″ and under. I was educated at public schools in Westchester, New York and received a BA from Columbia University. I have a spouse and a child. My spouse and I both love design and create beautiful places to live. My teenage daughter is finding her own style but she approves of mine. I was always more concerned about how things looked and what I wore compared to my siblings. My mother had great taste and always looked great. I love to read, and I go to the theater a lot. I love to cook and entertain. We have a place on an island in Maine and I love being there in the summer.

I have always loved clothes since I was little. As an adult it got harder to love clothes because nothing ever fit. I have always had a classic, preppy style. I am not interested in fads or fashion. I am interested in clothes that last and look great all the time. I am proud to say that there are very few pictures where I am embarrassed of what I am wearing. Most things I wore as a teenager I could still wear today. I have learned about style and fashion from looking. At everything. I have had the good fortune to live in New York City my entire adult life and so have been exposed to some of the great style icons and seen some of the most beautiful houses in the world.

The Peter Manning blazer, cut by tailors Martin Greenfield,

and PM dress pants by Hertling Trousers

My own dress is classic with a bit of modern flair. I like wearing jeans, blazers, oxfords. Easy clothes that can go anywhere. My company was born out of frustration that I could never find clothes that fit and the belief that there were others like me. In fact, there are NO clothiers catering to men of smaller sizes. It is appalling that this demographic has been ignored for so long. I am proud to be serving this customer and It turns out I was right. The response has been incredible. Men love our clothes because often they are receiving something that fits for the first time every. [My company’s house style is] Classic American Sportswear. I love our new Made in America jeans. It is the best jean I have ever worn. Our sweatpants are great and I wear them all the time and I love having ties that don’t hang too long.

PM sweatpants

Fit matters. A lot. If you cannot find clothes that fit you should get things tailored. Getting things scaled correctly, slim pants, shirts sleeves that are not too puffy, make such a difference in how you look and feel. Short men should never wear pleats, and pant cuffs cut the leg and should be avoided.’