Interview with Masaru Okuyama

April 21, 2013 by Ville Raivio

‘I’m 36 and a shoe maker, graduated from Nihon (Japan) University college of art. I have a wife and 2 children. My wife is the best supporter and sympathizer of my shoemaking. [My parents] were very surprised and, in fact worried, when I said that I want to quit my job and start shoemaking, when I was 29. Now all of them are good supporters. The first pair that I found the magic of shoes from was the Edward Green “Chelsea.” I was actually still very young, maybe around 24. I felt like I became very mature and it made me confident of myself when I was wearing that pair. That pair made me discover that shoes can change peoples’ minds, not only their appearance.

Products from Pukimo Raivio

Kiton, grey sports jacket, size 50EU
Ralph Lauren, Black Label suit, size 52EU

First, I learned shoemaking in a school in Japan, after that I made shoes for my friends, relatives, friends of my family…etc. Same as my shoes making, I like elegance in simplicity. One of my favorite styles from my collection is the One piece wholecut. I like the style with strong simplicity. I think the biggest difference between Goodyear-welted shoes and hand-sewn welted shoes is in the insoles. Goodyear-welted shoes need coarse cloth on the insole, this makes the whole shoes very hard, but hand-sewn welted shoes can keep the leather’s original flexibility.

Bespoke shoemaking is very personal. It’s not only buying something and going.
I need to meet the client at least 3 times for delivering one pair of shoes, so it’s like doing some project together. So you should find a cordwainer you feel comfortable to work with. But more than that I believe it is the 縁 (en), which means fate in Japanese. [My style] is subtle elegance. Now all my passion besides shoemaking goes to my 2 kids.

First of all, buy as expensive shoes as you can afford, which are from decent shoemakers, not from mega fashion brands, and give that pair the best care you can. It will tell you what you should do next with shoes, and also with your life.’