“I am 37 [this interview is two years old] and my occupation is Product Director at Alfred Sargent. I left school at 16 and worked briefly in a shoe factory, that is sadly no longer in existence, named Technic Shoes before knocking on Alfred Sargent’s door, and being offered a job fetching the Lasts out from where they are kept in readiness for production. I am married with two children – I think they think my obsession with shoes is a bit odd to be honest! My wife used to work at the factory so she at least understands the shoe making process (if not me) and my daughter likes to come to the factory occasionally, spin around on my office chair and use an old fashioned typewriter we have – I know what to get her for Christmas!

Products from Pukimo Raivio

Kiton, grey sports jacket, size 50EU
Ralph Lauren, Black Label suit, size 52EU

My parents; I believe are pleased to see a local company doing well having grown up in the area, my Grandfather worked in the leather industry also as a young man so he always showed an interest in what we were making at the factory. I have been, and continue to be, very fortunate to be surrounded by people who are passionate about their work and who have a tremendous knowledge. Paul Sargent’s constant desire to improve the product and infectious enthusiasm has a big effect on not just me but the whole team at AS.

I started at a young age, as previously mentioned, but I had been at Alfred Sargent for at least 18 months before I developed a real interest for shoemaking. This came about at the same time that I started attending a shoemaking college, spending one day week away from the factory learning about all the different departments and processes made me realise just how involved and skilled making shoes is. Hobbies: aside from shoe I’m a football fan (Liverpool FC is the only team worth following!) I also enjoy playing golf when I get a chance which of late has been rare.

In response to your question about my personal style I would say: Bad! Seriously, I think we all look at images via the media and think that jacket or shirt looks great, I will buy that. – But in reality it rarely looks as good on me when purchased probably as I’m not as slim or as elegant as the models from the photo-shoot! I prefer to just purchase what I like and look for value in everything – I know people who have said to me I would never spend that much money on a pair of shoes and yet over the course of a year end up spending more money on several pairs because the quality of the more ‘reasonably’ priced shoes means that they don’t last long, it’s false economics. I define value not just in price alone, I
recently had a gentleman email me asking if we could re-sole a pair of his Alfred Sargent shoes that he purchased 29 years ago – now that’s value!

I like Cad and the Dandy of London and also Harvie & Hudson shirts of Jermyn Street, London. Growing up in the factory we always did and to an extent still do make some stunning MTO shoes for other brands, but to me it always made sense to make the best shoes we possibly could under our own label also, so I was like a child being offered the keys to a sweet shop when Paul allowed me to develop the AS Handgrade line; it was a joy and a real team effort, I don’t believe it would be half as good as I believe it is had I not had strong support from everyone at the factory. I think the biggest change to my life as a result of the interest levels in AS aside from all the travelling is the amount I have been able to learn from people I get to meet, to be honest.

Tips for anyone who has only recently become interested in Goodyear-Welted shoes:

I would suggest choosing a conservative style that you will be able to wear frequently. Buy a plain cap toe oxford, a wing brogue, maybe a standard derby shoe also before moving to something more elaborate, as it is your first purchase you will want to be able to wear it frequently, and while the latest colour or style may interest and be the shoe of the moment, the classic styles will always be in fashion and ultimately get more wear. Shoe trees, Saphir care products and time spent caring for the shoes will substantially extend the life of your shoes. Also get measured by someone who knows the shoes they are selling – anyone who genuinely cares will put the time in in making sure the shoes that you choose are right for your feet.

http://alfredsargent.co.uk/

Picture: © Chay Cooper

~ originally published in Finnish on the 20th of October 2011