![\"Nikolaus_Tuczek06\"](\"http:\/\/www.keikari.com\/english\/wp-content\/pictures\/2013\/02\/Nikolaus_Tuczek061.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nG.J. Cleverley worked under Tuczek’s watchful eye for 38 years before opening his own firm in London. What’s more, Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling both spent nearly a decade at Cleverley’s before launching the latest English shoe factory, Gaziano&Girling.\u00a0I believe both Cleverley and G&G best represent the ethos that was born from Tuczek’s hands: sleek, contoured, close-fitting, chiselled and slender footwear. Somewhat effeminate but always proper. More than anything Tuczezk had a masterful sense of proportion. The late master made the most wonderful chiseled toes and lasts closer to wooden sculptures than mere tools of the trade. Sole stitching was dense, welts trimmed close, a ram’s head brogue medallion was common. Leather soles had contoured waists and understated finishing, shoe trees were hollowed and close-fitting — all characteristics that G&G and GJC share today, with the exception of the former’s aggressive waist shaping and eccentric designs. Tuzcek was open for some of the more whimsical wishes, too. The elastic alligator shoes with a brogue medallion on the instep, pictured at the bottom of this post, is proof of this.<\/p>\n In his column<\/a>\u00a0for Cigar Aficionado’s Winter 1994\/1995 issue, G. Bruce Boyer recounts the following story with John Hlustik, who bought and revived the Edward Green factory in 1982:<\/p>\n “Just the other week a gentleman came into the shop for some new shoes. He was wearing a pair made by Tuczek in the early 1940s. They were so marvellous, I asked him if he would sell them to me…offered him $3,500. He refused, and I can’t say I blame him. After 50 years, they had an absolutely vintage classicism about them.”<\/p>\n Back in the 80’s, $3500 had quite a bit more purchasing power than today. This comes to show how wanted and rare Tuczek pairs had become by then, even more so today among collectors and cordwainers who keep a small museum. I have searched for pairs on eBay every once in a while, and most items sell for closer to $1000. As the firm is defunct, no new pairs can be made. I feel the pairs still intact should be displayed in shoe museums or as part of collections, certainly not worn.<\/p>\n For dating vintage pairs, Nikolaus Tuczek has worked in these premises:<\/p>\n 24 Arthur Street, Oxford Street, 1853-1855<\/p>\n 24 High Street, St Giles’s, 1856-1861<\/p>\n 109 New Bond Street, 1862-1886<\/p>\n 39 Old Bond Street, 1887-1903<\/p>\n 15B Clifford Street, 1904-1937<\/p>\n 17 Clifford Street, 1938-1966<\/p>\n 21 Jermyn Street, 1966-1969<\/p>\n Around 1970 the firm was taken over by Lobb Ltd., who have honoured the late master by naming a current sample model after him. The side-laced pair is called\u00a0Elastic Sided with Plain Tuczek Style Elastic<\/a> – (SS597). Apart from the strong chisel toe, Tuckzek’s firm is rememberd for its eccentric elastic shoe model. This model allows the shoes to be taken off and put on faster than laced pairs, while still retaining proper support and comfort. Although a rare sight today, the model is most common in Japan, where shoes are removed for house visits and the elastic detail is helpful. A current online\u00a0search<\/a>\u00a0with Tuczek’s name comes up with many discussions about the late firm, implying that, although the man may be gone, he is somewhat remembered and his influence lives on. As is good and proper.<\/p>\n If the reader owns a pair of Tuzceks, I urge him to contact me and send along some pictures. The pairs still intact should be seen.<\/p>\n Pictures: \u00a9 original uploaders<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a> <\/a><\/p>\n