![\"Interview_with_Paul_Lux_at_Keikari_dot_com\"](\"http:\/\/www.keikari.com\/english\/wp-content\/pictures\/2013\/06\/Interview_with_Paul_Lux_at_Keikari_dot_com.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nMy father thinks I have way too many suits, shirts, ties, shoes but he gave up making some comments about that fact and still speaks some kind words about how elegant his son is. My grandmother likes very much the fact that I\u2019m so interested in men\u2019s clothing and loves the color diversity. My late grandfather was one of the most well-dressed men I have ever seen, with a way less furnished wardrobe than mine but always wearing an impeccable attire, even on weekends or during days spent at home. This made me very proud of him, as he was naturally elegant. Some people are seeking this effect their whole life but this isn\u2019t something you can obtain with time, or at least with great difficulty, whereas it was entirely natural on his side. My sisters are rather neutral and don\u2019t comment much. The elder sometimes tells me that she secretly wishes her boyfriend would dress more like me but such comments remain exceptional. I can\u2019t say overall that my family is blaming me for my passion but they are certainly impressed, maybe not positively, by the size of my wardrobe.<\/p>\n
As mentioned before, my grandfather probably had a great influence on me but the real trigger was one of my former bosses, back in the days when I used to intern in a boutique investment fund. His sense of style was great: suits of all colors, braces, lovely ties and oxfords with a patina. He invited me to \u201cconsult\u201d with Micha\u00ebl Ohnona, a Paris-based MTM tailor, a lovely man with a passion for elegance and style. I know most of Paris tailoring houses, MTM or bespoke and Micha\u00ebl has undoubtedly one of the most refined sense of style I\u2019ve ever come across. I\u2019ve known him for more than 5 years and every time I see him, I learn new things. I respect him very much for that reason and with time, I like to think that we became friends. He also patronized me upon my first Rolex purchase, a vintage Explorer I. It remains today my favorite watch, despite my owning some more prestigious branded watches. Dressing the Man<\/em> from Alan Flusser also had a tremendous impact on myself, especially from an educational point of view, sartorially speaking. He covers almost all aspects of menswear in great details and provides exceptional insight.<\/p>\n Your question is right on the spot as far as I\u2019m concerned as I first developed an interest in fashion in the early 2000\u2019s, and was a very active contributor and then-moderator of the CommeUnCamion community which remains, if I\u2019m not mistaken, the largest French fashion forum. I then progressively turned towards elegance and style and drifted away from fashion as \u201cfashion fades, style is eternal,\u201d as Yves Saint-Laurent perfectly pointed out. This might sound like a clich\u00e9 but it is the truest thing I\u2019ve ever read about style. However, I still have and wear my Dior Homme jeans from back then and they remain some of the greatest purchases I\u2019ve ever made for casual wear. I then started reading Depiedencap forum section and all articles I could find online. I left it quite quickly, though, as there are several harshly criticizing people without real extensive experience on this website. While this also applies to some members of the legendary Styleforum, some members such as Reginald-Jer\u00f4me de Mans and his encyclopedic knowledge, or SpooPoker and his great sense of style and color, made a great impression on myself.<\/p>\n It has been a long journey and it started with my grandfather, then with my boss at the investment fund, then with the Internet that is the largest information source one could ever hope to find. I ordered all menswear books and read all of them with great interest without ever discovering another Dressing the man<\/i>. I spent a lot of time talking to MTM houses and bespoke tailors and learned a tremendous number of things that way. I have especially Micha\u00ebl Ohnona and Andrea Luparelli from Sartoria Ripense (my official tailor) to thank for their knowledge and friendship. Tumblr is a remarkable source of inspiration where I am also a small contributor.<\/p>\n The greatest progress I\u2019ve made is probably through the daily discussions I\u2019m having with friends and e-friends that all are on the mailing list of Dirnelli. Most people would consider us a group of mentally deranged people but I would say we are a sartorial perfection-obsessed group of people. There are clearly different levels of dedication amongst us but I don\u2019t want to point out who is the most affected of all of us in terms of the quest for the Great Sartorial Truth, he will probably recognize himself.<\/p>\n I am wearing very fitted suits with high armholes, trousers with single pleats and a 4.5cm cuff. I am obsessed with freedom of movement and this is the first thing I\u2019m telling a tailor I\u2019m about to work with: \u201cthink Orchestra conductor and if you know him, think Wilhelm Furtwaengler. Now imagine that I\u2019m even more agitated and that I don\u2019t want my suit to move around during the day. It has to be a second skin\u201d. [My go-to makers are]<\/p>\n RTW: Ring Jacket, Isaia, Belvest, Caruso are my favorites<\/p>\n MTM: Micha\u00ebl Ohnona and Orazio Luciano<\/p>\n Bespoke: Sartoria Ripense, Camps de Luca<\/p>\n I started my Tumblr exactly when I discovered Tumblr as I thought it would be the best way to benefit from it. I started posting a bit about myself and to reblog my most favorite pictures, whereas I\u2019m almost solely posting my own pictures now. I cannot complain about how I\u2019ve been received; many people follow me, ask me questions and I\u2019ve even had the pleasure of being featured on Putthison.com<\/a>.<\/p>\n I am truly passionate about classical music and have been for all my life; my dad had a great role in that. My greatuncle was also a world-class cellist. I would dare to say it\u2019s in my blood and, while I have not inherited his genius, I\u2019ve been playing the piano for 23 years and couldn\u2019t imagine stopping. I am actually listening to 5th<\/sup> Piano Concerto of Beethoven while writing these very words. I am very much into travelling and write a lot of reviews and trip reports following my discoveries. I secretly wish I had been a luxury travel agent or luxury lifestyle advisor. Why haven\u2019t I pursued that career plan? I couldn\u2019t bear the thought of having clients with horrible clothing tastes, I guess. I also despise rude people and a lot of newly wealthy people follow this sad trend.<\/p>\n It does not cost more to buy a suit at the right size. That is the most valuable principle I would love people to apply. Never trust salesmen, especially at well-known brands flagship shops. Educate yourself online, it\u2019s free and you can also ask people on Tumblr for pieces of advice on how to buy a suit. The second principle is that a Dior suit will not make you elegant or stylish if it\u2019s not perfectly fitted for you. Just spend a quarter of that money to buy a suit at a store like Suitsupply or Boggi and select one that suits you well. You will be infinitely more elegant. Learn to drift away from brands and fashion houses, they’re not the absolute truth, far from it.’<\/p>\n http:\/\/paul-lux.tumblr.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Pictures:\u00a0\u00a9<\/small><\/small> Paul Lux<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" ‘I\u2019m 27, turning on 28, and I am in Business Consulting in a Big 4 firm. I graduated from Paris … <\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a>
\nWhile I was at first obsessed with Savile Row, probably because of the legend that goes with it, I progressively turned towards Italian and French bespoke tailors and now prefer these above all others. Savile Row has a more structured, military approach of suiting that I respect, but I prefer the French and Italian. While most suit addicts know what English and Italian styles are, very few know how to describe the French one. It\u2019s in my opinion the greatest one of all as it is a mix of English and Italian inspirations with a rather light-floating canvas, slightly more structured than the Neapolitan makers, but with the most incredible level of details and hand-stitching one could ever lay his eyes on. This is especially true for Camps de Luca, Cifonelli and Smalto. They are indeed more expensive than most tailors worldwide or at least on par with Rubinacci, Caraceni and Huntsman, on the other hand.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
keep reading<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[57,24,7,67],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2311","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-bloggers","category-french-style","category-interviews","category-men-of-style"],"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t