July 31, 2014 by Ville Raivio
Gagliardi is a family-owned Maltese menswear company born in 1964, run through its parent company Bortex. It was founded by Salvatore “Sunny” Borg, a WWII war-hero turned society rake turned merchant. Although not a tailor by trade, Sunny wanted to offer what he had seen in Italy during the 1940s and ’50s: a combination of vivacious colours, soft ease and la dolce vita.
His aim was to make Malta affordable yet high-quality garments with the latest details. This concept has remained, and today Gagliardi offers slim and slimmer cuts with fabrics sourced from Italy and Turkey, and manufacturing taking place in Europe, Asia, Northern Africa. Around half of the jackets and suits offer half-canvas construction, half are fused. These Maltese hawks sent one summery jacket for Keikari’s closer inspection.
The example jacket is Gagliardi’s heather with sky overcheck model with their regular Contemporary Cut, made from a 56% linen/44% wool mix cloth with a half-canvas chest. Progressing from top to bottom, I will first note that the bald shoulders are soft and made with just an inch thick combination of wadding, canvas and fusing. The collar is meant to be popped from time to time as it has a white twill and navy blue dogtooth lining.
The lapels are moderately shaped and detailed with a key-shaped lapel hole, under which are two white thread loops for flower stems. All buttons are made from cork-look polyester, which has a sort of clay-like surface. Purl buttonholes are regular in make, not dense nor sparse. Two patch pockets are shaped like Us and decorated with machine pick-stitching like the lapel.
The cut is Gagliardi’s regular one, but I feel it’s form-fitting. The open quarters have a long, rounded cut, the waist is pinched and the skirt flares somewhat. Pattern-matching is a bit off as is usual with jackets in this price range. Only the shoulders and sleeves are lined, and taped contrast edges cover all seams inside the jacket. The same seams have several centimetres of additional fabric for alterations.
Four inner welt pockets have nice contrast fabric for details. The front is self-lined with linen-wool cloth, which is somewhat rough and does not wrinkle much. The two back flaps are short with angled seams. The sleeveheads are large as usual with off-the-peg. The jacket arrived with a large hanger sporting rounded, shoulder-like edges and a garment bag.