Anatomy of a Gagliardi jacket

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July 31, 2014 by Ville Raivio

Gagliardi is a family-owned Maltese menswear company born in 1964, run through its parent company Bortex. It was founded by Salvatore “Sunny” Borg, a WWII war-hero turned society rake turned merchant. Although not a tailor by trade, Sunny wanted to offer what he had seen in Italy during the 1940s and ’50s: a combination of vivacious colours, soft ease and la dolce vita.

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His aim was to make Malta affordable yet high-quality garments with the latest details. This concept has remained, and today Gagliardi offers slim and slimmer cuts with fabrics sourced from Italy and Turkey, and manufacturing taking place in Europe, Asia, Northern Africa. Around half of the jackets and suits offer half-canvas construction, half are fused. These Maltese hawks sent one summery jacket for Keikari’s closer inspection.

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The example jacket is Gagliardi’s heather with sky overcheck model with their regular Contemporary Cut, made from a 56% linen/44% wool mix cloth with a half-canvas chest. Progressing from top to bottom, I will first note that the bald shoulders are soft and made with just an inch thick combination of wadding, canvas and fusing. The collar is meant to be popped from time to time as it has a white twill and navy blue dogtooth lining.

Anatomy_of_a_Gagliardi_jacket_at_Keikari_dot_com05U-pockets

Anatomy_of_a_Gagliardi_jacket_at_Keikari_dot_com06Self-lining

The lapels are moderately shaped and detailed with a key-shaped lapel hole, under which are two white thread loops for flower stems. All buttons are made from cork-look polyester, which has a sort of clay-like surface. Purl buttonholes are regular in make, not dense nor sparse. Two patch pockets are shaped like Us and decorated with machine pick-stitching like the lapel.

Anatomy_of_a_Gagliardi_jacket_at_Keikari_dot_com07 Soft shoulders and 1/4 lining

Anatomy_of_a_Gagliardi_jacket_at_Keikari_dot_com08Canvas, wad and fusing mixture

The cut is Gagliardi’s regular one, but I feel it’s form-fitting. The open quarters have a long, rounded cut, the waist is pinched and the skirt flares somewhat. Pattern-matching is a bit off as is usual with jackets in this price range. Only the shoulders and sleeves are lined, and taped contrast edges cover all seams inside the jacket. The same seams have several centimetres of additional fabric for alterations.

Anatomy_of_a_Gagliardi_jacket_at_Keikari_dot_com09 Half canvas chest

Anatomy_of_a_Gagliardi_jacket_at_Keikari_dot_com10The little details

Four inner welt pockets have nice contrast fabric for details. The front is self-lined with linen-wool cloth, which is somewhat rough and does not wrinkle much. The two back flaps are short with angled seams. The sleeveheads are large as usual with off-the-peg. The jacket arrived with a large hanger sporting rounded, shoulder-like edges and a garment bag.

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www.gagliardi.eu


3 comments »

  1. Ville Raivio says:

    Like most apparel, knit jackets are not inherently good or bad, but thinking makes it so. They lack the structure of padding with canvas, and they also don’t have the staying power of woven wool. Because of these points, knit jackets are not formal enough for smart occasions, but I do like them because they are the most formal piece of knitwear. It’s how you combine them and the places you will wear them in that make or break knit jackets. Oh, and be sure to choose tightly-knitted, preferably 3-ply (or more) jackets. These will drape best and last years of wear.

  2. Peter says:

    What do you think of the “knit” jacket?

  3. Toto says:

    I love overcheck jackets! This jacket has quite a unique colour too!

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